Two steps forward, one step back.

So I stared at the progress I had made in the last update and decided I didn't like the new lapel. Something, and I'm still not 100% sure what, was off. So it was back to the drawing board, seam ripper, pin box, and iron. This jacket is going to be perfect even if it kills me. I busted out my chalk and drew up the new shape:

The goal here was to try and get the lapel edge to be roughly parallel with the side of the torso. If possible, I'd also like to make the notch/collar edge parallel to the shoulder. However, the original suit pattern prohibits this. I was satisfied with the chalk-up and so I ripped the lapel back apart. This time I remembered to baste EVERYTHING. Both sides independently and then again together. I even threw in some pins for the hell of it.

 I also decided that using black thread was not going to cut it for this project. Since I was redoing all my previous stitches, it was the perfect time to make such a decision. I think it was the right call:

Alas, this project is beginning to show me that my $25 thrift-store Dressmaker 101 is on the way out. The lower thread tension is not adjustable (that I can find) and just look at this mess. Every time I start a new stitch now, I have to deal with this:

Fortunately, I love both seam ripping and knot tying. After a few minutes of dewadding I was ready to pull out the basting stitches. The to removal of basting is to NOT tie knots when you stitch those in. That way they slide out nice and easy.

And that's it! The side and lapel are a nice press and a couple of button holes away from completion. We're 25% of the way to the finish line. Time to take on the collar and lapel notch. To make the notch I had to separate the collar from the lapel. Not all the way, but a bit farther than what was chalked in (for ease of work). To make life easy on myself, I removed the felt collar backing:

This collar is different than the ones I've played with in the past. It's a total short-cut, but one I'm likely to employ in the future. The collar edge is folded over the felt and then overcasted back onto the felt. Only the edge, not the full length. The upshot is that it makes it much easier to keep the end looking clean and even. Note that the back edge is also zig-zagged to the felt backing. I will definitely NOT put it back on that way.

Time was getting short so I decided to mock up the fit and see how it all looked. Out came the pins and requisite facebook mirror self-shot:

I'm so tired excited here that I forgot to smile.Once this is done I'm totally going to have to tailor myself a suit so that Tom doesn't end up dressing better than me all the time.  I think it's damn good. Still not perfect, but damn good. What do you think, readers? Would you change anything about the lapel shape?

Next time I'll finish the collar, make a cardboard stencil and start in on the other side. See you then.