tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-50174812979173000542024-03-12T18:54:38.005-07:00Momentary Madness!The sewing, tailoring, gardening, brewing, and other projects of Kyle Baker.Kyle Bakerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02141441216783347620noreply@blogger.comBlogger20125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5017481297917300054.post-82797015332492479812015-10-15T21:35:00.000-07:002015-10-15T21:35:14.919-07:00Dehiatusing: Kyle's return to the blogosphere!Wow, it's been a while. When I last left off, I was living in Boerne and my wife had just been diagnosed with preeclampsia while carrying twins. That was nearly three and a half years ago. Much has happened, and I'm really not sure how to best catch everyone up, so I'll just go through the major events in chronological order. Grab some popcorn, pop the cork on some wine, and prepare for an ADVENTURE!<br />
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Lynette's pregnancy continued to be complicated and eventually we went in for a regular visit and learned that the kids were, in fact, being born the next day. So, Ladies and gentlemen, I <i>PROUDLY</i> present to you all Kyla Rose Baker (3 pounds 14 ounces)<br />
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and Langston Wesley Baker (3 pounds 3 ounces).<br />
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They were small, born at 32 weeks and 3 days, but healthy. We spent the next <i>two months</i> as NICU parents. Lynette was there in the day and I got a precious one hour with them each evening, after I got out of work and before the NICU shift change (when they kicked everyone out). It was doubly tough, because we were still living in Boerne, so the hospital was about 45 mins from the apartment. Fortunately, all things end--even NICU stays. Before I knew it, we were on our way home.<br />
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<span style="font-size: xx-small;">(This was, seriously, one of the happiest and most terrifying days of my life)</span></div>
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We soon realized that our apartment was too small and that being so far away from our families was going to be a problem. So we packed up our bags and moved to a trailer that my brother-in-law had just remodled and was kind enough to rent to us at a really great rate. The trailer was somewhat smaller than our apartment, but had a huge yard and was located right next to the San Antonio river, near Mission Espada. San Antonio was in the midst of adding a green-belt linear park system that ended, almost literally, at our door step. It was pretty cool. Meanwhile, the babies kept getting bigger and bigger.<br />
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They had separate cribs, but liked to hang out together sometimes so that they could team up on us. The look on Langston's face came to be know as his "Stink Face". He made it all the time. <br />
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I was getting very little sleep, but at some point I started to get very slightly <i>more</i> sleep, which made me feel like I could take on a project (because I guess 6-month old twins seemed easy at that point?) so I decided, "Hey, there's a big yard here! Lets put in a garden!" I think I spent about $100 on rare/uncommon heirloom organic seeds...<br />
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And then I proceeded to try and work the land, by hand, to install beds for the seeds. It was really slow going (the soil was hard packed silt/clay with lots of rock) and so I, cleverly, ALSO decided to start composting coffee grounds and shredded office paper so that I'd have dirt that was easier to work with. I planted seeds into a starter kit, and the clock started ticking.<br />
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<span style="font-size: xx-small;">(I may have been a bit overconfident in my garden-time estimates)</span></div>
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I also decided to plant some trees, since we didn't really have any. We got a pair of Methly Plum trees, a Ponderosa Lemon, a Fig (I don't recall the variety), a lime (it was $5 and just labelled 'Lime'), and two different types of grape vine. We bough some asparagus and flowers, but didn't ever find time to plant them. By spring, things were actually going pretty well. I was adding new garden beds every weekend or so, and my crops were actually growing. I even began to ponder getting chickens.<br />
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But, as I noted earlier, all good things must end. On Memorial Day weekend, 2013, Kyla had a kept me up all night (I don't remember why she was fussy) so I welcomed the soothing sound of rain when storms rolled in at some point early in the morning. I was awakened around 9am by a phone call alerting us that the neighborhood was beginning to flood.<br />
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The neighborhood had flooded in the past, but it had never reached the property where we were staying, and even at the worst, it had never been bad enough to damage any of the houses. We slowly got dressed and prepared to bunker down with some netflix. By 9:30, however, the neighbor's porch floated by and we realized that we were in trouble.<br />
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<span style="font-size: xx-small;">(If you look at the fence line, you can see the tops of my garden trellises)</span> </div>
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The flood later set a record for the San Antonio river. Ours was the house that was least flooded, but that was little consolation. We lost our car and even my damn pickup truck, along with much of our belongings.<br />
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Fortunately, my brother and his wife had just moved into their new home (seriously, JUST moved in. I'm pretty sure they'd been there only a week or so) and had bought more space than they needed. They gave us the top floor and lent a hand with the kids, while we salvaged what we could.<br />
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It was actually a rather pleasant blended family experience, all things considered. Tommy and Roxi were incredibly gracious hosts and the kids didn't seem to have noticed the change. Well, almost didn't notice it. We visited the San Antonio Zoo and noticed that they had a particular interest in boating...<br />
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We immediately began the process of hunting for a new home for ourselves. Shortly after the kids' first birthday, we settled on a nice two-story home, with a large back yard, good schools, and that was not on any sort of flood plain. There was a neighborhood pool and nature trail, low HOA dues, and our neighbors all seemed to be good people. It was perfect, except for the total lack of trees on the property. Every other house in the subdivision had mature oak trees; we had wide open spaces. We made the most of it, however.<br />
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<span style="font-size: xx-small;">(Probably the only suburban backyard kite flying action in the entire city)</span></div>
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As the years passed, the kids got bigger, funnier, and more incredibly awesome. They are three years old now and have recently started daycare (where they pretty much spend every day being the best kids in the entire place). Lynette is back at work, at a private school here in San Antonio, and I am still hard at work for the Northside Independent School District. I put in a garden this year, which managed to do pretty well, and have begun finding time for projects again.<br />
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So stay tuned everyone. I am mid-way through this year's Halloween costumes (expect a post about that sewing project shortly) and have plenty of dad-related back-logged content to write about. Expect a blog that is pretty much the same as I had back in 2012, but with these beautiful coauthors/editors to help keep me on task.<br />
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But for now, I am off to bed; it is nearly midnight and I am in serious danger of turning into a pumpkin!<br />
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Until next time,<br />
<br />-Kyle<br />
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<br />Kyle Bakerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02141441216783347620noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5017481297917300054.post-17145254450856841502012-05-18T18:09:00.001-07:002012-05-18T18:09:20.754-07:00A HiatusRegrettably, I am going to have to take a brief hiatus from blogging/sewing. My wife has just been diagnosed with preeclampsia (I can't believe that I just spelled that right on my first try!) and put onto bed rest until the pregnancy ends. It's possible that I'll get a few moments to break away and get some work done, but not too likely :(<br />
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On the flip side, the garden is going pretty well (as long as I can keep the vine borers at bay). Check out this zucchini that I picked the other day:<br />
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I promise to keep everyone up-to-date as the pregnancy progresses. In the next month or so expect a sudden upload of disgustingly cute baby pictures. I'll still be checking comments so feel free to drop me some love/encouragement/threats.<br />
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Until next time,<br />
KyleKyle Bakerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02141441216783347620noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5017481297917300054.post-38748342850069425922012-04-13T23:59:00.000-07:002012-04-13T23:59:57.018-07:00Where I create a good fitting, but unwearable, shirt (part II)<div align="left" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">This post is part II in a series. To get caught up to speed, check out part I <a href="http://thewriterkyle.blogspot.com/2012/04/where-i-create-good-fitting-but.html" target="_blank">here</a>.</div><div align="left" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzrhkKUu2r8Szk8VGH_XDxLnAdaC_0JdagIX81zu59IsYx23o6U4ugWAPNwuZIkzPZYHCczvLTvx3uPuebZqJT72POT7jY2f1NBDfWIClkl3xSc5ZRaQXp8hic0Ml-mlc_BufarIgUqPs/s1600/7-shoulder-too-big.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" qda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzrhkKUu2r8Szk8VGH_XDxLnAdaC_0JdagIX81zu59IsYx23o6U4ugWAPNwuZIkzPZYHCczvLTvx3uPuebZqJT72POT7jY2f1NBDfWIClkl3xSc5ZRaQXp8hic0Ml-mlc_BufarIgUqPs/s320/7-shoulder-too-big.jpg" width="239" /></a></div><br />
Awww shit, look at that crease! Note how the yoke rolls down onto my arm. Clearly the shoulder fit to too big. Except, when I compared the shoulders of this shirt to my well fitting white shirt, the rear yokes measure exactly the same. So I measured the front yokes from collar to sleeve:<br />
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</div><div align="left" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">And found that the blue shirt was 2cm wider along the front yoke edge. I don't know why they drafted this odd of a arm scythe, but I was going to have to fix it. Time to remove the sleeves and recut the yokes. </div><div align="left" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
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</div><div align="left" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; clear: both; text-align: left;">It was at this point that I realized total sleeve removal was going to be a no-go. When adjusting the side seams I chose to half-ass things and sewed the arm hole bottoms shut. Since I didn't intend to wear this shirt out anywhere it wasn't a big deal to just half-remove the sleeves. If you are doing this invasive of a procedure on a shirt you want to wear, I'd bring in the sides last (or just do things right the first time).</div><br />
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I measured in 16mm (the front yoke size on taken from the white shirt) and marked my new yoke width.<br />
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</div><div align="left" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">and then drew my new arm scythe using the french curve that I've borrowed from Crissy (I'm giving it back soon, I promise). I'm a firm believe in over-using pins, and also of pin-basting, so this was the sleeve before I sewed it:</div><div align="left" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPearIgBa6qh-Nk8uUpwA4VuxWjuwxaK9k89pOKx5IT5J7s6I2KXBycaYcnoRomQqmS0pFqgmwcHspBTcilGF4ZDdH66We6ZrMrMWPfhoKE3xjZgASDlcgRnMxweO5mBx9b9ufKqXoqQM/s1600/11-stitching-on-the-arms.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" qda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPearIgBa6qh-Nk8uUpwA4VuxWjuwxaK9k89pOKx5IT5J7s6I2KXBycaYcnoRomQqmS0pFqgmwcHspBTcilGF4ZDdH66We6ZrMrMWPfhoKE3xjZgASDlcgRnMxweO5mBx9b9ufKqXoqQM/s320/11-stitching-on-the-arms.jpg" width="239" /></a></div><div align="left" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div>While I was working with the sleeve, I went ahead and removed a 2" wedge (from armpit to cuff) in an attempt to reduce bagginess in that area. I think I may have pinned poorly, because it gave the sleeve an odd wrinkle. This is was the fit afterwards:<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVGdJrJK5JvRpXGwjSqqilEfl4pspcL8j4Y1jzD69m2tKPTUxSRxvcMBAximrQXGLaECnoHmUFq6srGbiIq4L1G1dvXjuSpPsyy7nxgTqRoDg8OyPehXgJEOFj-y-DyMvSx_OCo6fXWmM/s1600/13-pinned-sleeve.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" qda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVGdJrJK5JvRpXGwjSqqilEfl4pspcL8j4Y1jzD69m2tKPTUxSRxvcMBAximrQXGLaECnoHmUFq6srGbiIq4L1G1dvXjuSpPsyy7nxgTqRoDg8OyPehXgJEOFj-y-DyMvSx_OCo6fXWmM/s320/13-pinned-sleeve.jpg" width="239" /></a></div><br />
And an obligatory before:middle:after shot:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIWRKoxN3ARRmS2ME35OHcZwtWMGLAhhGW-z8NsgibKGN9ZoTt7SHoP97gTlm_FFrG7HffFs748jssEuOHBAW2DIWHUpjEsaqScYzo7JPZLGwX05er447L_5uCHYidYT8ge3SGQ8Qs7vA/s1600/Final.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="162" qda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIWRKoxN3ARRmS2ME35OHcZwtWMGLAhhGW-z8NsgibKGN9ZoTt7SHoP97gTlm_FFrG7HffFs748jssEuOHBAW2DIWHUpjEsaqScYzo7JPZLGwX05er447L_5uCHYidYT8ge3SGQ8Qs7vA/s320/Final.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div align="left" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div align="left" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">All in all I'm quite happy with the way this worked out. It looks like the shirt is too tight across my abdomen, but it's just my posterior being all too big again. I have plenty of ease above the hips. To address my rump in the final pattern, I'll add an inch or two to the bottom circumference. </div><div align="left" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div align="left" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">So what do yall think? Did I just totally waste a perfectly good 60/40 cotton-poly blend shirt? Any pointers on cutting it back apart to make a pattern? I've typed this 2nd part 4 times now because blogger keeps losing it (I guess they are experiencing technical difficulties here in the cloud...), so I'm all out of witty things to say. Leave me some love in the comments; Next time I think I'll take on ties!</div>Kyle Bakerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02141441216783347620noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5017481297917300054.post-88275696287151975972012-04-13T23:12:00.001-07:002012-04-14T00:00:30.225-07:00Where I create a good fitting, but unwearable, shirtStarting a new job bring with it many new and wondrous things. Chief among these, is the need to update one's wardrobe. One thing that I learned while hunting for new office-wear is that I have an awkwardly built body. OTR shirts that fit in the body will be bizarre in the neck/shoulder/sleeve EVERY DAMN TIME. Plus, now that I sew I am even more aware of these fit issues (which I was blissfully unaware of before). It was time to get my hands dirty.<br />
<br />
As I mentioned in my <a href="http://thewriterkyle.blogspot.com/2012/02/shirt-issue.html" target="_blank">Shirt Issue</a>, I have several cheap and ill fitting shirts laying around in my closet. I decided it was time for my 'U.S. Polo Assn' shirt to find a new purpose in life, as a pattern base. The plan was to tailor the shirt until it fits great, then cut it apart and make a paper pattern from the pieces. <br />
<br />
At this point, I think it's important to mention that I'm very much aware that I could just <i>buy</i> a shirt pattern, or even borrow one from Crissy (I'm sure she has at least 12). But that's not the way we do things around here. It's got to be the most difficult, drawn out, learning intensive route every time.<br />
<br />
This is what I started with:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOjwkx8NjUqEoflFgZvaavHJdJVtr8jml2fmDYOjr_StvoIty9bzQ0HPHkVBJwSk2_gyRT9XTBPd20EnTez83dDan0yCcd6cyjLcvtVBOc5wzD-2IKRjCF6AccrZPcYm7-nxF3Vap-2kQ/s1600/Start.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" qda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOjwkx8NjUqEoflFgZvaavHJdJVtr8jml2fmDYOjr_StvoIty9bzQ0HPHkVBJwSk2_gyRT9XTBPd20EnTez83dDan0yCcd6cyjLcvtVBOc5wzD-2IKRjCF6AccrZPcYm7-nxF3Vap-2kQ/s320/Start.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">There is enough room in there for two of me. The last time I addressed this problem I used a modified 'pinch-and-pin' method to remove almost 8" of material from the body circumference. However, that shirt had no pleats, and this one has a sizable box pleat to contend with. While I think it looks stupid, I decided to just sew the pleat shut along the full length of the shirt.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkLU8oqk5tnA238EErzj384RrVRWoHS-Ve0O3IcUXY1Edu6idxA-1tphIKKf_9q38_-RHh1TGSrJnWlD9ZXR5-AhI18E4TYMF_frCzXi07hARI50s2xTFGXdtelflOL27nWJTFbx-oBXs/s1600/1-Pinned-pleat.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" qda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkLU8oqk5tnA238EErzj384RrVRWoHS-Ve0O3IcUXY1Edu6idxA-1tphIKKf_9q38_-RHh1TGSrJnWlD9ZXR5-AhI18E4TYMF_frCzXi07hARI50s2xTFGXdtelflOL27nWJTFbx-oBXs/s320/1-Pinned-pleat.jpg" width="239" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Keeping things even was pretty simple since this shirt is a herringbone weave, so I had convenient guide-lines to follow. I went ahead and gave it a quick press to set the pleat. Once one side was pinned shut, I measured the width of the box pleat (1 1/2")</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy1T7diUPoeXGrhwvu_yslmk8q6mmt_Bx37aOtKU0PIKS_D6Zp1IAkcv7bfhH_lJQl_wabYS5W_xRSYDFDfC44eIIyAvDmXGM1ZaQRIjG-W7q2If_LPr5XykbWocUAtQctWEPnRFpcrbU/s1600/2-Mark-pleat-width.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" qda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy1T7diUPoeXGrhwvu_yslmk8q6mmt_Bx37aOtKU0PIKS_D6Zp1IAkcv7bfhH_lJQl_wabYS5W_xRSYDFDfC44eIIyAvDmXGM1ZaQRIjG-W7q2If_LPr5XykbWocUAtQctWEPnRFpcrbU/s320/2-Mark-pleat-width.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
and then marked the width down the full length of the shirt. Again I used the shirt grain as a guide to make sure everything was even. I doubt it would have mattered if I was off a little here or there, so don't stress out if you're doing this on broadcloth.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEili3TBSshTVdMec370iu3kSEjG6W3cQEU8tKfqq1wgBRwwjOdOgLkyJ1i-HL6iuyWzVmXIYbuL9pXZb4t8-u1DU8UAaVIDkJCZjv39ihhbcxsc7TrC5n4_UgR8-55rbvLzyR29Vlr72ds/s1600/3-mark-fold-line.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" qda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEili3TBSshTVdMec370iu3kSEjG6W3cQEU8tKfqq1wgBRwwjOdOgLkyJ1i-HL6iuyWzVmXIYbuL9pXZb4t8-u1DU8UAaVIDkJCZjv39ihhbcxsc7TrC5n4_UgR8-55rbvLzyR29Vlr72ds/s320/3-mark-fold-line.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
And then carefully fold the shirt in half so that the two pleat edges are even. Leave the first side pinned shut during this. The goal is to have the outer pleat edges (the edges that face the side seams) touching.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlPer2OFL7xUDjwXzOYEdkWJLbEZfexUQxwvIHyg5ztyeU-vy42k23JhGX6iRJQxYWszKx1Qzoa0r7-RCpPWj_C__o7U7izhlPjgoj6bL6Q8wmyAYV1E2hPkUlZGP2g08Gmbj49SKxPfw/s1600/4-pin-and-press.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" qda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlPer2OFL7xUDjwXzOYEdkWJLbEZfexUQxwvIHyg5ztyeU-vy42k23JhGX6iRJQxYWszKx1Qzoa0r7-RCpPWj_C__o7U7izhlPjgoj6bL6Q8wmyAYV1E2hPkUlZGP2g08Gmbj49SKxPfw/s320/4-pin-and-press.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">As you can see here, after a good press, the pleat is folded over on itself. If we sew along the bottom edge of the pleat/fold the resulting stitch line will hold the pleat shut (making it into a functionless style piece). It will also be totally invisible since the pleat itself will cover it. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivj5uNURC067KqYWPWoKSZ-4eI3OfKBER13E3veGhtgjkD04a488JUDfwjEnpPGh8ufSPtAIEJ1wj5vpLrTd97ZO0czt1xjXId-DN7zdXZv4sX4EpuEEIKBRqgv1IxFaJUh0YVgV60Txc/s1600/5-stitch-line.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" qda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivj5uNURC067KqYWPWoKSZ-4eI3OfKBER13E3veGhtgjkD04a488JUDfwjEnpPGh8ufSPtAIEJ1wj5vpLrTd97ZO0czt1xjXId-DN7zdXZv4sX4EpuEEIKBRqgv1IxFaJUh0YVgV60Txc/s320/5-stitch-line.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div align="left" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">My stitch line. The pins here are just holding the fold shut while I sew. Remove them and press the pleat open. At this point we've removed 3" of material from the circumference of the body, let's check the fit.</div><div align="left" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGYmQ7BDwo5bNiS0H9uhDxw9RobwPuiFgaQOiVCs8UNQ6pzMXUZAYEiqBIBpMNNqQJeFwYp_h3C_k9zig2BHM1w2ITaryCtxWJtuzPofo2tqN4TwWOBmsSqphUn1SxYwaZottEEywLKiQ/s1600/Midway.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" qda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGYmQ7BDwo5bNiS0H9uhDxw9RobwPuiFgaQOiVCs8UNQ6pzMXUZAYEiqBIBpMNNqQJeFwYp_h3C_k9zig2BHM1w2ITaryCtxWJtuzPofo2tqN4TwWOBmsSqphUn1SxYwaZottEEywLKiQ/s320/Midway.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div align="left" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div align="left" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">You can see how much of a difference a little volume reduction can make, but it's still is too blousey for my tastes. Since the back is now stable, I feel safe taking some more material out from the side seams. For this I decided to remove 1" from each side at my waist, tapering to a 1/2" reduction at the armpit and shirt bottom. Here was the result:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp2p-NOwXsupUdQrFUim-D-MajjqglEtQWNA6DtLGNqBrv9KH8dT9GBpMY1iCAQ5y8eX0Lm9JNl0aTUKwwqB9hFz7Su_QrOp1U86LkbZVzzkz9-Pen6KDHO2FbzmvoarQyGCbwm3wbC20/s1600/6-side-reductions.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" qda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp2p-NOwXsupUdQrFUim-D-MajjqglEtQWNA6DtLGNqBrv9KH8dT9GBpMY1iCAQ5y8eX0Lm9JNl0aTUKwwqB9hFz7Su_QrOp1U86LkbZVzzkz9-Pen6KDHO2FbzmvoarQyGCbwm3wbC20/s320/6-side-reductions.jpg" width="239" /></a></div><div align="left" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div align="left" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Looking good! I'd wear this to work now. Except that I can now clearly see creasing by my arms. Creasing that tells me the shirt is too large across the shoulders. It's like this project is never ending. </div><div align="left" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div align="left" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">(Author's note. This project is kind of long. Longer than I expected. I'm making an executive decision and splitting it into 2 parts for ease of browsing. <a href="http://thewriterkyle.blogspot.com/2012/04/where-i-create-good-fitting-but_13.html" target="_blank">Kyle Ruins a Shirt Part II</a>)</div>Kyle Bakerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02141441216783347620noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5017481297917300054.post-73887594159353886802012-04-11T20:10:00.000-07:002012-04-11T20:10:32.860-07:00Well, that took longer than expected<div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">So it's been a while since I posted anything. It's not that I've had nothing to blog about--quite the opposite actually. I've just not had the time to spend here on the interwebs. I still love you all, I've just not been able to show it. The good news is, I'm back.</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">Last month, in what is no doubt a precursor to future events, the <a href="http://thewriterkyle.blogspot.com/2012/01/twins.html" target="_blank">twins</a> decided to play with Mommy's sciatic nerve. They did not play nice. The end result was a very long week of totally immobile wife. I'll spare you the gritty details, but suffice to say I had to help her with everything. EVERYTHING.</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">I still managed to get the garden in and keep it happy. We've gotten some rain this year, and that's helped quite a bit. It's almost time to start trellising the squash and cucumbers:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj27uoHdNqG8iuOUrVzzIKuTXR8zMa3M-pZeOuZou8-EnEIfKm_fswPKPMoFbDCL42KJKbs1a9q2JyVqhLJeWP0gHSB4eakhPoA4TwDVjLfao798Jy9muHvOclHNIKGxefsC9BlI5ybuuM/s1600/Growing-along-nicely.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" qda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj27uoHdNqG8iuOUrVzzIKuTXR8zMa3M-pZeOuZou8-EnEIfKm_fswPKPMoFbDCL42KJKbs1a9q2JyVqhLJeWP0gHSB4eakhPoA4TwDVjLfao798Jy9muHvOclHNIKGxefsC9BlI5ybuuM/s320/Growing-along-nicely.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><br />
<div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">During all of this, I also began a new job; my first real 'Grownup' job. As of April 2nd, I am the new Grant Coordinator for <a href="http://www.casa-satx.org/" target="_blank">Child Advocates of San Antonio</a>. I don't typically like to mix business with pleasure (that's a total lie) but I'm going to take a moment to say that if you ever wanted a wonderful cause to support, the CASA programs (there's likely one near you) are about as good as they come. Essentially they provide a single neutral party to watch over children who have entered State Child Welfare programs (due to abuse or neglect) and ensure that the children receive the medical, social, psychological, and just plain human contact that they deserve. Check out the national CASA site for more details: <a href="http://www.casaforchildren.org/">http://www.casaforchildren.org/</a>.<br />
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The good news about all of this: I had to buy some new clothes. And, of course, nothing fits me well off the rack. So back to the sewing machine I go! I'm mid-way though my attempt to make a "Perfect Fitting Shirt" (which I intend to cut apart and turn into a pattern), and I have a self-drafted trouser pattern laying around here somewhere than needs proofing. Good thing I work a regular 9-5 now (with no weekends), I'll finally have time to finish this stuff.<br />
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Tune in next time (I promise it will be soon, I'm already 80% finished) when I face off with this shirt:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOVLlxMAQXp6XOtNXnLB2UIs-NHSsHUFoAEImeDtEA_n2ZX88kmX1VnYhYFmrs_soYV9ueV9UP-TiAGg59HCdZ_p7MVWa1v4xs7kfySR00yVNKwiA7sy0vpNeAKAyb3oR66ECbWKxzHEc/s1600/Start.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" qda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOVLlxMAQXp6XOtNXnLB2UIs-NHSsHUFoAEImeDtEA_n2ZX88kmX1VnYhYFmrs_soYV9ueV9UP-TiAGg59HCdZ_p7MVWa1v4xs7kfySR00yVNKwiA7sy0vpNeAKAyb3oR66ECbWKxzHEc/s320/Start.jpg" width="213" /></a></div><br />
Until then, feel free to share horror stories about being pregnant. I have nothing to work with, seeing as how I'm short on necessary equipment, and my wife is getting tired of getting blind-sided by all the-things-they-don't-tell-you-about-being-pregnant. Show us some love ladies, and gents I'm always open to tips on how to deal with these crazy hormones. </div>Kyle Bakerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02141441216783347620noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5017481297917300054.post-2244031557572534182012-02-18T22:37:00.000-08:002012-02-18T22:37:37.448-08:00The Shirt issue<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The third week of February is almost always total chaos for me. First I get hit with Valentine's Day and then immediately afterwards it's my wife's birthday and the requisite dinners and parties that both involve. Needless to say, it's tough to get things done. And that's been a recent problem for me: I have so much that needs to get done, that I spend all my time trying to figure out what comes next, and then I get nothing accomplished. This has become such a problem that I now <i>literally</i> have a closet full of "to do's".</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB68dsw6LCpOCNSVPtGjFYagcKvyTU5-davdmLfl0bgNcR6uxG98E2oc4LPn3g76-Glk0ndhJ7tQLifBzmvf204-sq2qolKj16QWz7PbX08Wo3UTcxXTUaTaquzfOxRsNMuB4WzzcTryk/s1600/To-do-closet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB68dsw6LCpOCNSVPtGjFYagcKvyTU5-davdmLfl0bgNcR6uxG98E2oc4LPn3g76-Glk0ndhJ7tQLifBzmvf204-sq2qolKj16QWz7PbX08Wo3UTcxXTUaTaquzfOxRsNMuB4WzzcTryk/s320/To-do-closet.jpg" width="191" /></a></div>The guitar I need to sell, wine that needs to be racked/bottled, a huge wad of shirts that need tailoring, and all the thrift store jackets that need some degree of messing with. This post is my first step at decluttering. It's time to tailor some shirts and get some color into rotation. But while I'm at it, lets take a look at the shirts construction and detailing. Surely there is something to be learned from that pile of cotton (and occasional ploy blend).<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHiP2JykzVU4vGG-iRQ3pWnsnwnZcoCAFUzej2kSGODGlInAWfUtlLfDYmVxYdgwxfOonQ-6duF7ncLJRwpJclDJSxBo1zIpuHc5nrImzAZu5Ref08Z6TC8mSvEOipZNHjvQb4z36NvDE/s1600/JH+Front.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHiP2JykzVU4vGG-iRQ3pWnsnwnZcoCAFUzej2kSGODGlInAWfUtlLfDYmVxYdgwxfOonQ-6duF7ncLJRwpJclDJSxBo1zIpuHc5nrImzAZu5Ref08Z6TC8mSvEOipZNHjvQb4z36NvDE/s320/JH+Front.jpg" width="228" /></a></div>I like when my shirts fit like this John Henry 'Modern Fit' shirt. Not constrictive, but far from boaty. Unfortunately, if I want this fit off the rack, I have to make sacrifices. Typically it means I can't button the collar (as is the case here), because 15.5" collars only belong to guys with lots of extra girth (apparently). If I want to wear a tie, the body will fit like this Calvin Klein shirt:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0BMyFwEh9qFUR_OkqhAIKICUq9i0vbF8Gbi_aR62wA2nScR7UYSybcTHTulNemi48GLtBxvbkqVVJMmeC6Y3n7Ptm2zT_M4FARlFLY2at3J5vBPEUVQkpEzpqZ8-sZtwmDApa1hkD-lg/s1600/CK-front-%2528tuck%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0BMyFwEh9qFUR_OkqhAIKICUq9i0vbF8Gbi_aR62wA2nScR7UYSybcTHTulNemi48GLtBxvbkqVVJMmeC6Y3n7Ptm2zT_M4FARlFLY2at3J5vBPEUVQkpEzpqZ8-sZtwmDApa1hkD-lg/s320/CK-front-%2528tuck%2529.jpg" width="201" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"> <span style="font-size: xx-small;">And that's with most of the excess pulled to the back.</span> </div><br />
All of the shirts in that pile have something fit-wise that annoys me. Most need to have the bodies trimmed down. Some need collars reshaped, others need sleeves shortened or have shoulders that are ever so slightly too wide. Now that I've tasted from the table of well fitted garments, I want front arm scythes that start <strong>exactly</strong> at the arm/shoulder line. I want sleeves and cuffs that don't engulf my hands or wrists. I want collars that accent my face shape.<br />
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So lets take a look at a few of these to-do's. The Calvin Klein from above, that needs the body narrowed, the sleeves shortened, and the shoulders cut down (ever so slightly). A blue Ralph Lauren Polo-line that is massively baggy on me, a Red Level Nine that fits well, but has a ridiculously large collar/stand. And one of three Van Heusen shirts that are in need of some serious slimming. I'm also going to take a look at the John Henry (also above) and a Ben Sherman that I'll have to stop wearing if I keep going to the gym.<br />
<br />
<strong>First up, lets talk buttons:</strong><br />
Notice something about these two?<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDDcdWW82EI6YgOzYR3m2NOeotUGH4mX6bpWfP8o_fNuo5YA_FAg-NKHlfV4BdJhqUqc5_H3d8Ad0WmSL7xsN0Mew8O8Lk9Uqzbro5e3NZLvwJuc6HDyVbKxqoOpZ9IgHmfUtbe4Et4Pk/s1600/CK-Buttons.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDDcdWW82EI6YgOzYR3m2NOeotUGH4mX6bpWfP8o_fNuo5YA_FAg-NKHlfV4BdJhqUqc5_H3d8Ad0WmSL7xsN0Mew8O8Lk9Uqzbro5e3NZLvwJuc6HDyVbKxqoOpZ9IgHmfUtbe4Et4Pk/s320/CK-Buttons.jpg" width="191" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid7eyWN90h4PS7wwcne88sXU5v69EkKQ85WOPUBXpTCJFDhYUvdbwMtdm4w10zesdGX9pOfHxaK_DNrqe_38Fj2jJLjyhaCLFHYAeBvst0P1s2hka_Q4I94a25w90CuuoacWJllB5JeEo/s1600/Polo-Buttons.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid7eyWN90h4PS7wwcne88sXU5v69EkKQ85WOPUBXpTCJFDhYUvdbwMtdm4w10zesdGX9pOfHxaK_DNrqe_38Fj2jJLjyhaCLFHYAeBvst0P1s2hka_Q4I94a25w90CuuoacWJllB5JeEo/s320/Polo-Buttons.jpg" width="191" /></a></div>They have vertical button holes all the way down. The Van Heusens do this as well. I only recently began to question this practice, after noticing that the John Henry shirt was different:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWIHkcVZ8_qDuJXY_AyMs_dSSydfCd2yCQgjlqAZf_zbzYjG6dtvR9QR4wZn7NdSGgXBk48FwN_1sc4ta_gIuKhXQqrTlqpLC0mV5kmGnslD5NraG8GXuhmrwqfM4Y2PlEMWysgPdyUCI/s1600/JH-bottom-button.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWIHkcVZ8_qDuJXY_AyMs_dSSydfCd2yCQgjlqAZf_zbzYjG6dtvR9QR4wZn7NdSGgXBk48FwN_1sc4ta_gIuKhXQqrTlqpLC0mV5kmGnslD5NraG8GXuhmrwqfM4Y2PlEMWysgPdyUCI/s320/JH-bottom-button.jpg" width="173" /></a></div>A horizontal final button hole. I did a bit of googling, and learned that the reason this is done is to prevent the shirt from shifting, ever so lightly, and disrupting the horizontal lines of the patterning during wear. When the top and bottom buttons are fastened (these are the only two horizontal holes) the shirt is locked into position. The remaining holes are vertical to make button fastening easier. I wasn't sure how true that all was until I compared the patterns of the Calvin Klein to the Ben Sherman:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQMjgvBRaoybt6Q3UElpxUcWv4S-rIsdBuaTL1HlHv29rKKYsNKZJivHMMlYVZ3TbX245FsSYBVIcf584skYQAHwh_Z-6C-yb3K4zYZMwQKcTkzxnhk9WZnMWvP5-GJxr2cgQLuqioohA/s1600/Ben-Sherman.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQMjgvBRaoybt6Q3UElpxUcWv4S-rIsdBuaTL1HlHv29rKKYsNKZJivHMMlYVZ3TbX245FsSYBVIcf584skYQAHwh_Z-6C-yb3K4zYZMwQKcTkzxnhk9WZnMWvP5-GJxr2cgQLuqioohA/s320/Ben-Sherman.jpg" width="191" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDDcdWW82EI6YgOzYR3m2NOeotUGH4mX6bpWfP8o_fNuo5YA_FAg-NKHlfV4BdJhqUqc5_H3d8Ad0WmSL7xsN0Mew8O8Lk9Uqzbro5e3NZLvwJuc6HDyVbKxqoOpZ9IgHmfUtbe4Et4Pk/s1600/CK-Buttons.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDDcdWW82EI6YgOzYR3m2NOeotUGH4mX6bpWfP8o_fNuo5YA_FAg-NKHlfV4BdJhqUqc5_H3d8Ad0WmSL7xsN0Mew8O8Lk9Uqzbro5e3NZLvwJuc6HDyVbKxqoOpZ9IgHmfUtbe4Et4Pk/s320/CK-Buttons.jpg" width="191" /></a></div><br />
Ben Sherman uses a pearl snap for his final buttons, which achieves the same effect. Look closely at how exactly the pattern continues on the Sherman and how sloppy by comparison the CK shirt is. I doubt that I'll try to improve the stability of the CK shirt, although I could do so by adding an additional button hole. I will however, make sure that all shirts I make incorporate either Shermanesque snaps or horizontal lower holes.<br />
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<strong>Next up, lets examine sleeve cuffs:</strong><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzSR8k1kKXWN0_4h32YLNvYaklubZwU01xe45W4SJo8BUH9ZVqJGkMCRitPg9v8lmPOeXDvcja2kXiuZgv23h_3Ap7ZragFSJiYzM0pkPGDNwAMHy_-kff-qkkKnZanXfUwBi9WrTnHeI/s1600/Sleeves.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzSR8k1kKXWN0_4h32YLNvYaklubZwU01xe45W4SJo8BUH9ZVqJGkMCRitPg9v8lmPOeXDvcja2kXiuZgv23h_3Ap7ZragFSJiYzM0pkPGDNwAMHy_-kff-qkkKnZanXfUwBi9WrTnHeI/s320/Sleeves.jpg" width="154" /></a></div>Not a lot of surprises here. Par for the course is two buttons at the wrist and a gusset with an extra button to secure it. Notable exceptions are the Van Heusen shirt, which doesn't include the gusset button, and the Red Level Nine shirt which only has one sleeve size and uses two buttons for the closure. After staring at the cuff shapes for a while, I dislike the hard lines of the CK square cut cuffs and also the overly soft rounded edges on the Polo and Van Heusen shirts. It is wort noting that the cuff shape does not seem to bear any relationship to the collar shaping.<br />
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<strong>Speaking of collars:</strong><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPufXWbnCmynBvWDzq6StlgrPTJqziUWnvef8k1TvQHViK9F1wkv6KyYFsNL8wbQrCEgGvjPNVJQ7jYDc0KLk-qYCjACVjune1Vu2_FKr-bZ_2vyCc-ASFJ_sgYqKNH6u8Pp_uHsXLudI/s1600/Collars.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPufXWbnCmynBvWDzq6StlgrPTJqziUWnvef8k1TvQHViK9F1wkv6KyYFsNL8wbQrCEgGvjPNVJQ7jYDc0KLk-qYCjACVjune1Vu2_FKr-bZ_2vyCc-ASFJ_sgYqKNH6u8Pp_uHsXLudI/s320/Collars.jpg" width="191" /></a></div>This is an area that I've come to be pretty particular about. Notice that the CK and Polo shirts have metal collar stays inserted, and that the other shirts have permanently installed soft plastic stays. I hate soft plastic stays. They always melt/distort/break/move and then leave you with an oddly shaped unwieldy collar. I will never make nor buy a shirt without collar stay sleeves. I just cannot abide it. And on the topic of things that annoy me in the collar department, look at the beefy number that got put on the Red Level Nine shirt:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhftUgspMxWvTMLs7D8Wd09se49YlFsZpSBIc-SPcqYQFTa7RbgKh7UyBORsCOjxnZvAns5Luv569SdITBGtLhT27CRY2-MJhaV8aHp8AVt2d4HPZ0v8l65hilc134seLCAQNS3l2C_0u0/s1600/RL9-Collar.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhftUgspMxWvTMLs7D8Wd09se49YlFsZpSBIc-SPcqYQFTa7RbgKh7UyBORsCOjxnZvAns5Luv569SdITBGtLhT27CRY2-MJhaV8aHp8AVt2d4HPZ0v8l65hilc134seLCAQNS3l2C_0u0/s320/RL9-Collar.jpg" width="191" /></a></div>I just don't have enough neck to wear this beast. Also, the double buttons on the collar stay are a serious nightmare to fasten/unfasten. It's a real shame because the collar is the only thing keeping me from wearing this shirt. Future plans involve cutting almost half-an-inch off the collar and halving the collar stand (this sounds easy enough). <br />
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<strong>So what have I learned from all this?</strong> <br />
Van Heusen shirts are utter crap. I got exactly what I paid for out of those <$10 sale shirts. Lots of cut corners, cotton/poly-blends, and poor factory fits. I'll not be buying any more of these, no matter how low the sale price may drop. <br />
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Calvin Klein and RL Polo shirts are better in quality, are 100% cotton, but still cut a few corners. Factory fit was not great either. <br />
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The Red Level 9 shirt has some questionable design decisions, the same poly-blend as the Van Heusen shirts, and no collar stays. However it does fit me pretty spot-on through the body, aside from the massive collar assembly which eclipses my entire neck. I doubt that I'd ever buy this brand in the future(I got this one as a gift).<br />
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John Henry shirts fit me decently when I get them one size too small. This one was another gift, so I don't know how a medium would have looked. Based on the detailing the quality seems higher than the other inexpensive shirts; I would consider possibly buying more in the future.<br />
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Ben Sherman seems to offer the best detailing, build quality, and fit for my body. The one shirt also cost as much as all the others combined. That said, it gets worn all the time while the other shirts toil in the 'to-do' pile.<br />
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Based on all this, I plan to knock out the RL9 collar assembly first. After that I'll slim down the maroon Van Heusen, and then begin recrafting of the Calvin Klein shirt. If, along the way, I ruin anything no tears will be shed. The goal is to do one shirt a week until the pile is gone. After that, it will be time for me to apply what I've learned and make a shirt from scratch. Stay tuned for updates!Kyle Bakerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02141441216783347620noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5017481297917300054.post-34586124538639054012012-02-10T23:10:00.000-08:002012-02-10T23:12:29.887-08:00It must be spring (because excuses are popping up like weeds)Hello fellow citizens of Blogistan. I come to you today with sad news: I still haven't gotten any sewing accomplished. But it's not my fault, how can anyone be expected to sew under these conditions?<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi9h9ZITysPdZ05In2cflU_fVmlYiDvv2YCBvAVA9ZVxTz2LeVIKBS2oJx6iJN9jMOLYhXksJegXoN4rhXR9oiXHiwL8we2tNSvjQZWBMGk31HEWxyTYglto7HV8iqBZ7QijYuzsSS1ms/s1600/Sewing-space.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi9h9ZITysPdZ05In2cflU_fVmlYiDvv2YCBvAVA9ZVxTz2LeVIKBS2oJx6iJN9jMOLYhXksJegXoN4rhXR9oiXHiwL8we2tNSvjQZWBMGk31HEWxyTYglto7HV8iqBZ7QijYuzsSS1ms/s320/Sewing-space.jpg" width="191" /></a></div>I can hear your thoughts now, "That poor machine, all tucked away unloved and unused under a crappy card table. And what's with that tiny meth lab in the bottom left corner?" Fear not, I would never cook meth, and especially not in my future twin's soon-to-be-nursery. That's just my make-shift seedling incubator.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht7lv93-aMn-vN1SoVXNGNNtIz4RfRXJM_dQTL-LMGNFTpWCUM72IVku1Za_8uAxNYiCI7ks_y_vQIxLBrdrGhzVyx-i2zQt_CH9AjxC0wHiEHXKA8Rlq_8dSdlEbh9ovKLR9CQxLYyzA/s1600/Grow-box.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="191" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht7lv93-aMn-vN1SoVXNGNNtIz4RfRXJM_dQTL-LMGNFTpWCUM72IVku1Za_8uAxNYiCI7ks_y_vQIxLBrdrGhzVyx-i2zQt_CH9AjxC0wHiEHXKA8Rlq_8dSdlEbh9ovKLR9CQxLYyzA/s320/Grow-box.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Look at all those future tomatoes, bell peppers, ground cherries, strawberry and malabar spinaches, and (hopefully) strawberries! And this doesn't include the cucumbers, melons, squash, and various other peppers that will be going in outside (in a couple of weeks). As you can see I've kept a bit on the busy side with all this planting and growing.<br />
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What's that? Oh, yes, I <i>know</i> that growing is pretty much fire and forget. Once those seeds were planted I only have to throw twos of minuets per day at watering. Where then has all my time gone? I'm glad you asked:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1olwJ9RfF4x-kfIfUr0Eg7ExACrb9xe_LSgkF_bQzKu0Q7C-FJ8dTssXyGWs3JzHlhG8A78uK_zuZSJUTBHDT0M_DZhga0yN2aRWObm8zlA9dZD3H5PoWftaqpyiXv2dU2EIZWDUGEWU/s1600/Garden.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="191" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1olwJ9RfF4x-kfIfUr0Eg7ExACrb9xe_LSgkF_bQzKu0Q7C-FJ8dTssXyGWs3JzHlhG8A78uK_zuZSJUTBHDT0M_DZhga0yN2aRWObm8zlA9dZD3H5PoWftaqpyiXv2dU2EIZWDUGEWU/s320/Garden.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Sexy bamboo trellises</span></div>I've been spending my nights cutting bamboo (from a source who I doubt will miss it) and my days trying to assemble these things. I need 6 in total, and they have to be <b>strong</b> because they'll be holding lots of fruit/vegetables. For interested parties, the total garden area is somewhere between 250 and 300 sq/ft, depending on how much I squeeze the rose bushes and trumpeter vine. The plan is to lay things out roughly like this:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilOaNOZwNDGu2eq2vpFqIc2xWwo9vSYBsfiUwnDqiyH-2jS02Q_eeICs4nAfJarv8yXR4mJHixXoYX-iP86rPhrm2xHdOdC-m38srwNQ5Vb_QMqOULAwDIaC6ngd9bxKtw7FBODdM3vMM/s1600/Arrangement.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="90" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilOaNOZwNDGu2eq2vpFqIc2xWwo9vSYBsfiUwnDqiyH-2jS02Q_eeICs4nAfJarv8yXR4mJHixXoYX-iP86rPhrm2xHdOdC-m38srwNQ5Vb_QMqOULAwDIaC6ngd9bxKtw7FBODdM3vMM/s320/Arrangement.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>This will probably change a little, but it's what I'm working from at the moment. Watering will be accomplished with a home-made soaker hose which will be laid under my mulch layer (for less waste). Speaking of watering-- I have to say that the Arbor Apartments in Boerne are <i>Awesome</i>. Last year my closest water hookup was 180' feet away. This year, the maintenance man reinstalled an old faucet that is only 50' away. How cool is that? He's totally getting extra watermelons this year.<br />
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I also plan to practice being a father, get the neighborhood kids interested in gardening, and safeguard the garden site all in fell swoop. I'm going to make a bunch of garden gnomes out of air-dry clay, then invite the local kids to paint them for me. I'm no sculptor, so their 5 and 6 year old painting skills will be the key to success here:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinmGZot0mAUguOec0t7CZG3zqBdUg8_hV1n3wdUeQWGKNE7ckLpOw3sJYWID8_CzWeKs388OFWp52XwRtKF1Q2drrz91iVOhhfZXKuQqH1DQxla04yJVnioqXVnu4YG1espmI9MF25PLI/s1600/Gnome.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinmGZot0mAUguOec0t7CZG3zqBdUg8_hV1n3wdUeQWGKNE7ckLpOw3sJYWID8_CzWeKs388OFWp52XwRtKF1Q2drrz91iVOhhfZXKuQqH1DQxla04yJVnioqXVnu4YG1espmI9MF25PLI/s320/Gnome.jpg" width="141" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">My first attempt at Gnomage</span></div>So as you can see, I've had a lot on my plate. Along with this, I've moved to working full time at work, started going back to the gym 3 times a week, and I'm making another attempt at becoming a runner (couch to 5k, anyone?) But I should be back to the needle soon. I printed a new pattern last night (for a new shirt) and I have a coworker who wants me to modify his shirt collar-- for MONEY! <br />
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Now all I have to do is avoid assassination from my enemies in the insect kingdom. No joke, I found this agent at work on my car tire today:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-B_uyqDR5bIIDmRtVwMc8WdrJxQc7tt34jCfcx_kbKM7-JvFwEPBniZGEjjBRBVGO-ZucBxonfssy52Skate1luYCaI2vjyN6J5or_QtNS3k1pIceNT5flercsG8GtyWsMZ0Xn7sL9YQ/s1600/Assassin.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-B_uyqDR5bIIDmRtVwMc8WdrJxQc7tt34jCfcx_kbKM7-JvFwEPBniZGEjjBRBVGO-ZucBxonfssy52Skate1luYCaI2vjyN6J5or_QtNS3k1pIceNT5flercsG8GtyWsMZ0Xn7sL9YQ/s320/Assassin.jpg" width="225" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Sneaky bastard</span></div><br />
Stay tuned for some actual sewing, more garden shenanigans, and more amazing things that you can squeeze into a single day if you don't watch T.V. Leave me some love, and remember to eat what you sow:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBJmAKTjkQcQ741JPsevSo3MLFtSMb2H7y3TmOJrL7gNskyZpYgMJugHUgYFtUbHFKlqAozpYa2gOYR-8rGPO37Vor2tui7UGWeg3AXJ-2eFLLD0RelKI5UWPN7ffzbZbCAuvqoa6rJl0/s1600/why+I+do+it.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBJmAKTjkQcQ741JPsevSo3MLFtSMb2H7y3TmOJrL7gNskyZpYgMJugHUgYFtUbHFKlqAozpYa2gOYR-8rGPO37Vor2tui7UGWeg3AXJ-2eFLLD0RelKI5UWPN7ffzbZbCAuvqoa6rJl0/s320/why+I+do+it.jpg" width="191" /></a></div>Kyle Bakerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02141441216783347620noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5017481297917300054.post-38870294478602747472012-02-01T18:34:00.000-08:002012-02-01T18:34:33.879-08:00TheSewingGuru.com: reviewed!Dear Blog,<br />
I have been a bad blogger. I have been inconsistent and generally not given enough love to you or my readers. Can you ever forgive me? I promise to try harder from this point on.<br />
<br />
Love n Kisses,<br />
Kyle<br />
<br />
Silliness aside, I have been a bit lacking in the regularly-updating department. Life's been pretty hectic between all the doctor visits, medical-research-whoring, and garden preparation. I haven't even gotten <em>any</em> sewing done. Not a single stitch; I feel like a total bum. Not at all like <a href="http://www.thesewingguru.com/" target="_blank">The Sewing Guru</a>, who clearly has his act together.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://thesewingguru.com/wpimages/wp2033bc13.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="309" src="http://thesewingguru.com/wpimages/wp2033bc13.png" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">The sewing guru</span></div><br />
As I have mentioned before, I'm still pretty new to this whole sewing thing. What I do know is a combination of judicious googling, a few crash-course phone calls to <a href="http://crissybaker.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">Crissy</a>, and lots of dismantled garments. Which is why I wish I'd found the sewing guru's site much sooner. To be blunt, it rocks.<br />
<br />
I am a visual learner so the site's This Old House style videos are a major asset. Plus he does so much more than follow a simple pattern; he explains <em>why</em> each step is necessary. There's a course on basically every form of men's garment, and most women's basics too (Dress, skirt, jacket, trousers, blouse). He's also got lots of videos on sewing basics and machine maintenance.<br />
<br />
My only real complaint is that he doesn't offer alternative routes for the home sewer who lacks professional equipment. An example of this is that he instructs viewers to overlock all edges. He fails to mention that if you are a hobbyist, and don't own an overlock machine, you can still pink your edges or use a bias tape. I think this oversight comes from the main strength of the series: The author appears to be a professional tailor.<br />
<br />
He has several videos posted on <a href="http://www.youtube.com/user/ny204193d" target="_blank">YouTube</a>, but he also offers a 2-day tree trial on his site, TheSewingGuru.com. I think that a beginning sewer could definitely do a lot worse than to drop $17/month to learn from a pro. It blew my mind that a trouser waist band had 6 pieces (plus another 4 of interfacing). The Simplicity pattern I have laying around here only calls for a single piece to be folded over!<br />
<br />
So that's about it this time. Have any of you found any resources that you consider to be indispensable? Does having a visual reference make you want to take on a huge foolish project? I'm thinking that I need to make one more pair of trousers, 2 shirts, and then take on making a suit from scratch. Maybe February will be my month to shine (although, I think March is more likely). <br />
<br />
Until next time,<br />
KyleKyle Bakerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02141441216783347620noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5017481297917300054.post-5516052195808009462012-01-24T19:36:00.000-08:002012-01-24T19:36:32.767-08:00Tommy's new suit: Before and AfterBack in November I decided that I'd tailor my great-uncle Wally's old suit and give it to my twin brother for Christmas. I went into this with basically no experience, a used $25 Dressmaker 101, and lots of stubborn resolve. The chronicles are recorded here: <a href="http://thewriterkyle.blogspot.com/2011/12/in-over-my-head-what-else-is-new.html" target="_blank">Concept</a>, <a href="http://thewriterkyle.blogspot.com/2011/12/too-wet-to-climb-but-progress-is-made.html" target="_blank">initial shaping</a>, <a href="http://thewriterkyle.blogspot.com/2011/12/two-steps-forward-one-step-back.html" target="_blank">some revisions to the plan</a>, <a href="http://thewriterkyle.blogspot.com/2011/12/we-we-last-left-off-i-was-nearly.html" target="_blank">finished the jacket shaping</a>, and a brief <a href="http://thewriterkyle.blogspot.com/2012/01/lets-talk-about-my-ass.html" target="_blank">bit about the trousers</a>.<br />
<br />
There was a bit of a delay getting photos of Tom in the suit, so I borrowed it back and took some of my own. Enough stalling, here are the before and after shots. <br />
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I started out with this:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg62hsAo5__2DXw3pNbqpH2oR3umZHwHO5KuOA58zKjzjXXmFzIGiuSYvOB3yCaza0mnZ0oPDguGpXdDgO4UKiqCG3XiWnMYTNOIl51vp5BmemHIqfWsH_Ky4XjUXtWiyTOuBy1LI84z-0/s1600/Before-composite.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="235" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg62hsAo5__2DXw3pNbqpH2oR3umZHwHO5KuOA58zKjzjXXmFzIGiuSYvOB3yCaza0mnZ0oPDguGpXdDgO4UKiqCG3XiWnMYTNOIl51vp5BmemHIqfWsH_Ky4XjUXtWiyTOuBy1LI84z-0/s320/Before-composite.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>And turned it into this:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnoIxjqOBV-Y0ad1HGg1sBGbJ2blikqX7YIq1HXyQD9IzOsvLStD1e9omfrTaIJS0t9aXl3CaSEWouWcLOM_8fwhLsu8cCudazZRkuDPZXJrJX5wl_Kch43dyFpG3FqQBzEdqhV-wBJi4/s1600/After-Composite.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="315" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnoIxjqOBV-Y0ad1HGg1sBGbJ2blikqX7YIq1HXyQD9IzOsvLStD1e9omfrTaIJS0t9aXl3CaSEWouWcLOM_8fwhLsu8cCudazZRkuDPZXJrJX5wl_Kch43dyFpG3FqQBzEdqhV-wBJi4/s320/After-Composite.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>and to address a few confused viewers, it is the same suit. I didn't dye it, that's just ambient lighting variation. No I didn't move the pocket, the before pics were taken in a mirror, the after shots were taken by my wife. :)<br />
<br />
All in all, the work was fairly simple and was actually a bit of fun. The hardest part was picking a lapel shape that I liked. I struggled a little with the trousers, but that was mostly because I had never played with a pant pattern before and I had no idea how they went together. Total project cost, excluding my time (which is always free) is roughly this:<br />
<br />
Sewing machine: $25<br />
Thread: $3<br />
Fair value for the suit: $10<br />
---------------------------<br />
$65<br />
<br />
Not bad really. I wish my suits from the store fit this well (I guess they will soon enough). So if you are a young professional looking for a first interview/work suit, or if you want to make an awesome gift for a man in your life, hit up a thrift store and dive in! I'll gladly answer any questions you have along the way.<br />
<br />
What do you think? Is it worthwhile to recycle old suits? What are some pitfalls I may have missed or over looked? Leave me some love in the comments below. <br />
<br />
I'll sign off tonight with a final side-by-side before/after:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVMh5vNwMFLvJSReL5iUHabXHW9TklEH0gLWDBX8gOwDx6wpFghQE7edFNUz3wED6s8kbFLU1pSTYUbgKgL-ZayvxX9_trOBuZWwmjpE5IkKnlz4scuR4l1t3oJBXneMBMJZgJGND0qP8/s1600/Tailoring.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="281" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVMh5vNwMFLvJSReL5iUHabXHW9TklEH0gLWDBX8gOwDx6wpFghQE7edFNUz3wED6s8kbFLU1pSTYUbgKgL-ZayvxX9_trOBuZWwmjpE5IkKnlz4scuR4l1t3oJBXneMBMJZgJGND0qP8/s320/Tailoring.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Kyle Bakerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02141441216783347620noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5017481297917300054.post-37999764352706038262012-01-21T22:23:00.000-08:002012-01-21T22:23:50.504-08:00PM7 pant pattern: Round 2In my <a href="http://thewriterkyle.blogspot.com/2012/01/well-that-didnt-work.html" target="_blank">last post</a> I was trying to decide if Pattern Maker 7 was a worthwhile investment of my time. On one hand it offered the possibility of custom tailored patterns. On the other hand it contained incomplete pattern collections, absolutely no sewing instructions, and a high learning curve. In the end I wound up with skinny pants. But a quick redrafting (based upon the same measurements) yielded a totally different pattern, and some much more promising results. Check these out:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguYvpp5JqLz2h9kFxI8ngKJwmztLBaoXhAnwQ28YcKR5pAAQVKQ8sI7vP3uHNpdQr6FOcKQc-eFcgHHrD5L8i5fmyVBq54B69VjJo61ySM7KWlQ1NE4rkQR8_ctP0jeHjtjPEPp-Yjv-o/s1600/MKII-front.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguYvpp5JqLz2h9kFxI8ngKJwmztLBaoXhAnwQ28YcKR5pAAQVKQ8sI7vP3uHNpdQr6FOcKQc-eFcgHHrD5L8i5fmyVBq54B69VjJo61ySM7KWlQ1NE4rkQR8_ctP0jeHjtjPEPp-Yjv-o/s320/MKII-front.jpg" width="131" /></a></div>I can even sit down in these!<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBgf-W4ku0l1Sw6zgViec0uvkKK6_f-JeYy0P2YFJrLAiim-UgtetuyCyBDHVYSc0LwERKxW3tLlXV5a-3Ak1rCqvVgLK7QiklQ861Hc5v03AIHXtQ6Cbt65gQG9y5XV_33QblqrwxP2A/s1600/MKII-side.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBgf-W4ku0l1Sw6zgViec0uvkKK6_f-JeYy0P2YFJrLAiim-UgtetuyCyBDHVYSc0LwERKxW3tLlXV5a-3Ak1rCqvVgLK7QiklQ861Hc5v03AIHXtQ6Cbt65gQG9y5XV_33QblqrwxP2A/s320/MKII-side.jpg" width="130" /></a></div>Not particularly form-fitting, but most men's pants aren't (or shouldn't be). I do wish they were a bit narrower below the knee, but that should be fairly easy to do.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMAMAGC9NIHEdNRVJI-f5D9hTt7ycJBnUrKPDk7pLYIKwQGDXKaLil6ne1-h4IzW2vH-K9w2UFZLXaOuVfZsVq7qV_NIpSQFEDsQ1dWY8NjXs4GeNAKLlWPDJJgkadMRa88zwBbI49Ggs/s1600/MKII-back.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMAMAGC9NIHEdNRVJI-f5D9hTt7ycJBnUrKPDk7pLYIKwQGDXKaLil6ne1-h4IzW2vH-K9w2UFZLXaOuVfZsVq7qV_NIpSQFEDsQ1dWY8NjXs4GeNAKLlWPDJJgkadMRa88zwBbI49Ggs/s320/MKII-back.jpg" width="139" /></a></div>And an ass shot, because I wanted to show off that the program actually makes a pretty well fitting seat. I didn't add rear pockets because this was a test muslin and I didn't see the need to mess with such details.<br />
<br />
So what are my final impressions? If you are looking for a way to bang out some men's basics (lets face it, that's all men have) and you want to draft the pieces quickly and easily, than Pattern Maker 7 is probably not for you. I found many places where the pattern drafted incorrectly (like the way that the pocket assemblies draft without a seam allowance, even though it shows one) or simply cut corners (like the lack of rear waist darts and the single piece fold-over waist band).<br />
<br />
But if you are looking for a program that will design a pattern for those basics, and you are willing to then tune that pattern to get it where you want it (basically, just use it at a starting point for a self-draft) than the $400 + $30 (for the men's pattern pack) may be the perfect thing for you. However, I feel it worthwhile to mention that there are many other drafting programs out there for under $300... and they may offer complete mens collections.<br />
<br />
That's about all I have for tonight. It's been a long week here, but I've got some cool stuff for yall on the horizon, including photos of the finished Christmas suit (I borrowed it from Tom and had my wife snap a few shots) and a review of TheSewingGuru.com's tutorial series. Stay tuned!Kyle Bakerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02141441216783347620noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5017481297917300054.post-85100415881139925912012-01-12T22:21:00.000-08:002012-01-12T22:21:05.030-08:00Well that didn't work...<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">When we <a href="http://thewriterkyle.blogspot.com/2012/01/time-to-try-something-new.html" target="_blank">last left off</a>, I had decided to try and create a pair of pants using a CAD made pattern. The results were, well, less than spectacular:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxHt7mw1k4asuGaY_XhlxwETeDnaXm0LvaFzdgNR57MabwwPFijCK5t2f5CY499VhtYxWrDc5wm20CZQucZ5uvzBbziwyaYU1OkFfzHEPNO0NN3rItASpMVkeJzRvnTplp6RRkH0g_4wA/s1600/IMG_20120112_223816.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxHt7mw1k4asuGaY_XhlxwETeDnaXm0LvaFzdgNR57MabwwPFijCK5t2f5CY499VhtYxWrDc5wm20CZQucZ5uvzBbziwyaYU1OkFfzHEPNO0NN3rItASpMVkeJzRvnTplp6RRkH0g_4wA/s320/IMG_20120112_223816.jpg" width="179" /></a></div>Where, oh where did I leave my Desert boots and fixed gear bicycle? As you can see, the pants were mostly a failure. PM7 asks for your exact measurements and says it will add ease for you. I generally like more ease than this:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLC1ddWc94O4l7j_TSbLUFYUDT34iseCBoC6r9CNqeCQP9WVKvxKxPEZg2_ALMp_m4s_wSXrEPe0e26M76Rm7Ld19CRHPtW6Znlnoq4cMCPUuxFLKQgJxEw_WPKouncGd1OF5RLcUKAnU/s1600/IMG_20120112_223953.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLC1ddWc94O4l7j_TSbLUFYUDT34iseCBoC6r9CNqeCQP9WVKvxKxPEZg2_ALMp_m4s_wSXrEPe0e26M76Rm7Ld19CRHPtW6Znlnoq4cMCPUuxFLKQgJxEw_WPKouncGd1OF5RLcUKAnU/s320/IMG_20120112_223953.jpg" width="268" /></a></div>That is seriously the full range of motion I have for each leg. I will say that the calf-fit wasn't bad, but at the same time, the thighs fit like tights. The heavy taper accentuates the oddness of my leg build and makes me look like a weird androgynous hipster.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjiCnAeTHQl0aBgdX87wo5n4VhXBQ3mgvFgIVOPIa2mZFApf-rP5mBW2zwH-TbGk0Ix9zlpKJkJNp2R2PIKhGyhmFyRPoF8sESsxNZsYqyGyB3RB9tNMoo94FLIReXfiPJJ6DYNJk2CjE/s1600/IMG_20120112_223830.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjiCnAeTHQl0aBgdX87wo5n4VhXBQ3mgvFgIVOPIa2mZFApf-rP5mBW2zwH-TbGk0Ix9zlpKJkJNp2R2PIKhGyhmFyRPoF8sESsxNZsYqyGyB3RB9tNMoo94FLIReXfiPJJ6DYNJk2CjE/s320/IMG_20120112_223830.jpg" width="139" /></a></div>But surely the program was only doing what I told it to do right? Perhaps it arises from some metric/imperial conversion error. It has been <a href="http://articles.cnn.com/1999-09-30/tech/9909_30_mars.metric_1_mars-orbiter-climate-orbiter-spacecraft-team?_s=PM:TECH" target="_blank">known to happen</a>, even to the best of us. So I reentered everything (in centimeters this time) and got a very different pattern. Was the difference because I used a measurement file this time versus manual entry? Was it metric/imperial madness? Who cares. Check the difference:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTKMeoZVjNlOBTh0A9hiC5XUu0a4tVYim-vxhp-TOLpMg8k9zF-HCq5g69DxpY10vrq2O4gSgyuoX_p_RQnwDFVImrqk_q-sHhpQfoe1hWaRuOHAzf0QQNU7TuttQtVaF4MVZPbkwE22c/s1600/changes.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTKMeoZVjNlOBTh0A9hiC5XUu0a4tVYim-vxhp-TOLpMg8k9zF-HCq5g69DxpY10vrq2O4gSgyuoX_p_RQnwDFVImrqk_q-sHhpQfoe1hWaRuOHAzf0QQNU7TuttQtVaF4MVZPbkwE22c/s320/changes.jpg" width="211" /></a></div>I think my thighs will fit in these pants! I also attached the infamous unknown part to the pant-front to create a zipper shield. The women's pattern did not generate the weirdo, but did create a flap (attached). Also the instructions (which are still pretty vague) have this picture:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_yrtJO7Sfz83vFI2K3tlai185QQrvLv0v3TsCtdiFC-NvlCzH2dW4JiU74SZLfdYeodkIVQHwrlFsmEcuMorZGSHOnK1Re9sRf5Fhc7vqaF9r_3PMBWiOd8V14OI6ov-8KIb0QD-RkTs/s1600/sew_zipper1.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_yrtJO7Sfz83vFI2K3tlai185QQrvLv0v3TsCtdiFC-NvlCzH2dW4JiU74SZLfdYeodkIVQHwrlFsmEcuMorZGSHOnK1Re9sRf5Fhc7vqaF9r_3PMBWiOd8V14OI6ov-8KIb0QD-RkTs/s1600/sew_zipper1.gif" /></a></div>Perhaps the men's pattern is not fully debugged? After a long day here are my impressions of PM7 thus far:<br />
<br />
The men's patterns seem a bit rough. The women's patterns (aside from being much more plentiful) seem like they would produce solid garments. The men's patterns seem like they will need work. The zipper shield is either missing or oddly detached, there are no darts for the rear waist (I expected that there would be; the women's pants include them-- so have every pair of pants I've ever owned), and the fit this time around was not very good.<br />
<br />
The program its self is a little raw too. The documentation is sparse and very technical. The interfaces are not very intuitive. I feel like I could love it (and I really want to) one day. But first I'm going to have to commit a lot of time that I just don't have. Have any of you ever used PM7? Did you just make stuff from the women's collection or did the menswear work out fine for you too?<br />
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Next time I'll post up the new pair, and maybe a little love for the garden too. I found a patch of bamboo growing wild, and there are 6 trellises that need building. Stay tuned:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIyiclaRJUF6Geggx6tBATjizm5lvsEDuTAyW1i_K2CJtXj1siwS89ZK9hbyYO6k9Z6DSqZ81p31PKKT57mqQSo5ATsHBAWTMvNbrujZRV6PJxBq71fRZ1G9XodBm95Z97cAb6BoQQTxI/s1600/IMG_20120111_170407.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="191" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIyiclaRJUF6Geggx6tBATjizm5lvsEDuTAyW1i_K2CJtXj1siwS89ZK9hbyYO6k9Z6DSqZ81p31PKKT57mqQSo5ATsHBAWTMvNbrujZRV6PJxBq71fRZ1G9XodBm95Z97cAb6BoQQTxI/s320/IMG_20120111_170407.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Kyle Bakerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02141441216783347620noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5017481297917300054.post-67226398689880325212012-01-09T21:59:00.000-08:002012-01-09T21:59:11.488-08:00Time to try something newWhy can't Lynette find a roll of tape anywhere in this damn apartment? Because I've used it all on this monstrosity:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtG4sGZi5heRsQZAj05GCnlqk4Myt7bHAnzkga8JYS-8RYFhWlNtWtfEHu7xmskBYJW1c7ej7e7bhkBU2DQO5dfuj5cjmg58FU7naeY5G4fkBH2P1aENzKUNAkSH2tddnldE3K0DdIUl4/s1600/IMG_20120109_224121.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="245" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtG4sGZi5heRsQZAj05GCnlqk4Myt7bHAnzkga8JYS-8RYFhWlNtWtfEHu7xmskBYJW1c7ej7e7bhkBU2DQO5dfuj5cjmg58FU7naeY5G4fkBH2P1aENzKUNAkSH2tddnldE3K0DdIUl4/s320/IMG_20120109_224121.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>That's right, I've decided to <em>make</em> a garment from scratch. It was inevitable really, I couldn't buy stuff at thrift stores and then tailor it forever. Eventually I was bound to grow tired of the same corrections over and over again. Also, Boerne Texas can only have so many size 30-34 trousers and 40r jackets on its thrifty shelves.<br />
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But here's the thing: menswear patterns are few and far between. In fact, there is not a single store within 30 mins of my apartment that carries a mens pattern (Walmart has a unisex vest, but I don't feel like that should count). Isn't that sad? <br />
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Sure, there are not many men who are into sewing these days (certainly not in south Texas) but come on, don't women sew for the men in their lives too? I know that the internet has tons of shops that I can peruse, and that Crissy has a huge selection too, but that does me a fat-bit-of-good at 11:30pm (when I tend to do all my sewing).<br />
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So, in a moment of weakness, I turned to the world of pattern making software. Google had many a great review that talked up the pros and cons of various programs, but in the end I settled on Pattern Maker 7.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.patternmakerusa.com/" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://www.patternmakerusa.com/PatternMaker%20Store/images/weblogo.gif" /></a></div>I chose it because it has a cool 30-day trial and lots of premade patterns for me to play with. <a href="http://www.leenas.com/" target="_blank">Leena</a>, who seems to have been the chief pattern designer for the program, has lots of tutorials and information about PM7 on her website. Granted, a bunch of it is currently over my head.<br />
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I plan to make a pair of trousers and a shirt to test how the program's tailored patterns fit, and if they are good, print out a huge stack of patterns for myself before the trial period expires.<br />
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This project also gives me an excuse to use the $2 set of red bedsheets I scored at the thrift store the other day, and this super awesome Christmas present from the greatest wife in the world, Lynette:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAeArE5LnVWXimQq2ed4EXDgQgoMc_gpPkUplIQBxJgvqybudgbCFgGGiVwUWTcDjU3WsCYiZVNI6Yaa82GcE_U3AHSAaTKPi4dPXu8G0cf4JtIGHomU3l_ES3w-rn0xCm7cOJEcHbaek/s1600/IMG_20120109_231538.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="191" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAeArE5LnVWXimQq2ed4EXDgQgoMc_gpPkUplIQBxJgvqybudgbCFgGGiVwUWTcDjU3WsCYiZVNI6Yaa82GcE_U3AHSAaTKPi4dPXu8G0cf4JtIGHomU3l_ES3w-rn0xCm7cOJEcHbaek/s320/IMG_20120109_231538.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Yep, she never does anything half-assed (unlike me). Before I get to that, I need to cut out my pattern pieces. It was kind of a pain cutting around all the taped seams and edges, but much easier than tracing things first. +1 points for CAD sewing.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg62rWrtRogcusx0euCNKlHMlmF7ExXOq_szac9x2Pba50jkddWupHI2dUj7EznCXtCFUiDD9MwqWHIh5yeNRpIny2718Xowx5zgu-k32Fz36ShAvsJwIjJitYAA1gosOZpdS2zhCyFX3w/s1600/IMG_20120109_225458.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg62rWrtRogcusx0euCNKlHMlmF7ExXOq_szac9x2Pba50jkddWupHI2dUj7EznCXtCFUiDD9MwqWHIh5yeNRpIny2718Xowx5zgu-k32Fz36ShAvsJwIjJitYAA1gosOZpdS2zhCyFX3w/s320/IMG_20120109_225458.jpg" width="191" /></a></div>Seems pretty straight forward, except that I've never made any pants before. There is a <em>brief</em> set of instructions on Leena's site, but not enough to make me feel like I can assemble these in any sort of successful way. Fortunately, I have a plan.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG3lIa4CKmjASszgHM-_06dxfnEAwoFcQd7KMfiNiHLga_r5vCb6HyWvueBvfx5iQ0RuizIxLvihp3EBYZIT18MhmdTsgJU4-XKRYMoDVAYcvHOGIaJJHM5Nj0ImHZc4lvHCS_vZMbbuI/s1600/IMG_20120109_234637.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG3lIa4CKmjASszgHM-_06dxfnEAwoFcQd7KMfiNiHLga_r5vCb6HyWvueBvfx5iQ0RuizIxLvihp3EBYZIT18MhmdTsgJU4-XKRYMoDVAYcvHOGIaJJHM5Nj0ImHZc4lvHCS_vZMbbuI/s320/IMG_20120109_234637.jpg" width="191" /></a></div>I picked this Kwik sew #323 up at an estate sale a while ago. It's the wrong size (36-40) but but I intend to use it as an assembly reference tool. I can't imagine that there are many different ways to assemble a pair of trousers, but then again, I have no real idea what I'm doing here. What do you think? Is this a bad idea or should I be fine winging it?<br />
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Also what the hell is this?<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf0f_OA-mhyphenhyphen5Zheo5xWyJuXg09kSQ08Vy6znauI-qJPd016JBfJJGijGorbrF4CQhsODeiF8-KvZQWNDUNdi6YyKOQRuzG18C3q5kL3Xqe8akj4UgU8efE2DmmHNxDDJXoGxS_CLyLdZ4/s1600/IMG_20120109_225535.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf0f_OA-mhyphenhyphen5Zheo5xWyJuXg09kSQ08Vy6znauI-qJPd016JBfJJGijGorbrF4CQhsODeiF8-KvZQWNDUNdi6YyKOQRuzG18C3q5kL3Xqe8akj4UgU8efE2DmmHNxDDJXoGxS_CLyLdZ4/s320/IMG_20120109_225535.jpg" width="191" /></a></div>This is part of the pattern, but I have no idea what it's supposed to be. Maybe a flap for the rear pocket? If you have any ideas, I'm all ears. Stay tuned to watch <strike>a slow motion train-wreck</strike> me slowly figure this out. Also a verdict on PM7's pattern library.Kyle Bakerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02141441216783347620noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5017481297917300054.post-90750136312111931912012-01-07T22:23:00.000-08:002012-01-07T22:24:21.470-08:00TWINS!!!!!My wife and I learned that were were pregnant about 9 weeks ago. It's our first pregnancy and my parents' first grand child. Needless to say, there was quite a bit of excitement. <a href="http://crissybaker.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">Crissy</a>, or should I say <i>Aunt</i> Crissy, had already set her sights (and sewing prowess) on baby clothes. And then came the sonogram:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuDKsQL9Vib0KHzHgJNDZy-Q1-2tnXcF5ADNTsYKa9TWlq5euBhFfX6ZYq27tXSYBW1s8ycLF8Drt-fwGVUGUsuhBSDrK2Zu8sXc3vEk8D62ufcRojxw7KnrC8yNTgrOGW7dw4KEAp2X4/s1600/Sonogram.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuDKsQL9Vib0KHzHgJNDZy-Q1-2tnXcF5ADNTsYKa9TWlq5euBhFfX6ZYq27tXSYBW1s8ycLF8Drt-fwGVUGUsuhBSDrK2Zu8sXc3vEk8D62ufcRojxw7KnrC8yNTgrOGW7dw4KEAp2X4/s320/Sonogram.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>TWINS!!!<br />
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I'm super excited and super terrified. I have no idea how I'm going to pay for two kids at once. One was going to be a challenge by its self. Wow.<br />
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Shock and awe aside, it's time to get busy. My wife is going to need maternity clothes and then we are going to need baby clothes and accessories. It's also possible, maybe even currently happening, that I could gain some 'sympathy weight' so that Lynette doesn't feel all alone in the I-need-new-pants party. Google has returned some pretty good looking tutorials on converting regular pants to maternity ones; can anyone recommend one method over another?<br />
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Also, I'd like to thank <a href="http://threadsovmetal.blogspot.com/2011/12/baby-cowboy-booties.html" target="_blank">Thread OvMetal</a> for bringing these disgustingly cute cowboy booties onto my radar:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_YeU3rFGCq1tgi0hKX_Rot26CrGYIcMZTiTvIZOSDblLjVb382DXsz5zE0EGeAolR_IzaaxBa5cwiAF7cb5TkuFA_lkPw4apBqV9_v_J5FBXFaqePbEGooP-_r0CM31Ao3n7AFZfybJY/s1600/pattern-115-front.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_YeU3rFGCq1tgi0hKX_Rot26CrGYIcMZTiTvIZOSDblLjVb382DXsz5zE0EGeAolR_IzaaxBa5cwiAF7cb5TkuFA_lkPw4apBqV9_v_J5FBXFaqePbEGooP-_r0CM31Ao3n7AFZfybJY/s320/pattern-115-front.jpg" width="207" /></a></div>There are some great pictures of her finished products on her blog. This may be the sort of thing that my mom falls in love with and turns out by the dozens. (I can only hope). Well, that's all for now. I need to get some measurements taken for new sewing projects, give my wife a massage, and order seeds for this summer's garden. Looks like it's going to be a busy growing season all around.Kyle Bakerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02141441216783347620noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5017481297917300054.post-58141237493777943062012-01-01T22:10:00.000-08:002012-01-01T22:46:35.022-08:00Lets talk (about my ass)Well, that took longer than expected. Two weeks ago, <a href="http://thewriterkyle.blogspot.com/2011/12/we-we-last-left-off-i-was-nearly.html" target="_blank">I promised a plethora of ass shots</a> and a discussion on trouser seats. Blogoshpere, I fully intend to deliver:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CzLiealF5TY/TwEmV53M7lI/AAAAAAAAAF0/3bxt4KBI14o/s1600/Ass+shots.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CzLiealF5TY/TwEmV53M7lI/AAAAAAAAAF0/3bxt4KBI14o/s320/Ass+shots.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Just look at those beauties. Actually, do look at them-- it's two examples of well fitting trouser seats. Notice that there's no bunching or pulling nor is there any excess material. This is what I wanted from Wally's old trousers, and here is what I started with:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iZNCbZMLESk/TwEnNDizcaI/AAAAAAAAAGA/_b4q9iQkKQs/s1600/Wally+trousers+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iZNCbZMLESk/TwEnNDizcaI/AAAAAAAAAGA/_b4q9iQkKQs/s320/Wally+trousers+1.jpg" width="191" /></a></div>Hey! Not bad at all. I guess this project was a breeze and there is absolutely no reason for the lack of progress updates. Well, that <i>would</i> be true, except that this photo is rigged; I am, in fact, cheating.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SnhPF8gxpCU/TwEocrWuPMI/AAAAAAAAAGM/Ejcyvbs5y4s/s1600/Wally+trousers+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SnhPF8gxpCU/TwEocrWuPMI/AAAAAAAAAGM/Ejcyvbs5y4s/s320/Wally+trousers+2.jpg" width="146" /></a></div>Awkward posture aside, that's a whole lot of material that needs to come out from the waist band. A whole lot of material:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Lf4ohPTCJt0/TwEpKXMJ7lI/AAAAAAAAAGY/t2CqpTdOMro/s1600/Wally+trousers+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Lf4ohPTCJt0/TwEpKXMJ7lI/AAAAAAAAAGY/t2CqpTdOMro/s1600/Wally+trousers+3.jpg" /></a></div>Taking a pair of trousers in 2 inches is pretty simple. 4 inches means that a fair amount of reworking will be necessary. Plus, I have a confession to make: The last pair of trousers I attempted to "fix" are currently occupying space under my bed, in many pieces, and assembled in a way that my wife would call "Ruined". I really hope that I learned something last time... <br />
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Here's what I planned to do: First, take the pants in exactly as I would under normal circumstances. Second, re-work the seat seam to fix the inevitable mess that will be created. Third, narrow the legs down to be less blousey. Finally, hem the length for (hopefully) close to a half brake, and also conceal the damaged section at the bottom of the trouser leg. Alright, enough gum flapping, lets get to work!<br />
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The first step is to remove everything that is holding the rear seam together:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rq9A3R3cfV8/TwErr1ZuNcI/AAAAAAAAAGk/c_0D2h8ljLc/s1600/Wally+trousers+4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="191" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rq9A3R3cfV8/TwErr1ZuNcI/AAAAAAAAAGk/c_0D2h8ljLc/s320/Wally+trousers+4.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>The more material needs to come out from the waist, the further down the rear seam things have to open. Since I'm are approaching madness here, I went ahead and opened the seam all the way to the crotch joint:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HJSAc_rLVyo/TwEtXsre2XI/AAAAAAAAAGw/EQe4OzmAr4g/s1600/Wally+trousers+5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="191" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HJSAc_rLVyo/TwEtXsre2XI/AAAAAAAAAGw/EQe4OzmAr4g/s320/Wally+trousers+5.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Flip the waist band up and find the old stitch line. Mark the new width on both sides, mark a line (following the shape of the old line) that runs from your new waist band, down to the seam. Pin that bad-boy and give it a quick stitch:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bUZ0h0S8zIo/TwEuM29ttwI/AAAAAAAAAG8/fF0H4mF1ucs/s1600/Wally+trousers+6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bUZ0h0S8zIo/TwEuM29ttwI/AAAAAAAAAG8/fF0H4mF1ucs/s320/Wally+trousers+6.jpg" width="226" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SjGxKE6CRcw/TwEu0WxEccI/AAAAAAAAAHI/xEjySIic2Rg/s1600/Wally+trousers+7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="191" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SjGxKE6CRcw/TwEu0WxEccI/AAAAAAAAAHI/xEjySIic2Rg/s320/Wally+trousers+7.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Sweet. Pull your pins out and give things a test fit. Be sure you find all your pins you do <i>not</i> want to forget one and find it later during the test fit.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DeDDYrTrfmc/TwEvkw63ERI/AAAAAAAAAHU/ksNU6IMFj2g/s1600/Wally+trousers+8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DeDDYrTrfmc/TwEvkw63ERI/AAAAAAAAAHU/ksNU6IMFj2g/s320/Wally+trousers+8.jpg" width="191" /></a></div>Well, that looks like crap. I could fit two more of my ass into the seat of these pants. This is a great example of what it looks like if you take too much out of the waist and not nearly enough out of the rear-crotch assembly. It looks fine from the side however:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--6d1yhmiVSE/TwEv9DgwTDI/AAAAAAAAAHg/q5umuElKk_E/s1600/Wally+trousers+9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--6d1yhmiVSE/TwEv9DgwTDI/AAAAAAAAAHg/q5umuElKk_E/s320/Wally+trousers+9.jpg" width="191" /></a></div>I'm telling you, I have <i>curves</i>. Kiki calls it my "Christmas Ham". Too bad you can't really get a clear look at it because it's getting lost in these baggy pant legs. But one problem at a time here folks, lets fix that seat.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Q4jbmGRjsuc/TwEw0jx6GSI/AAAAAAAAAHs/5tRLjxkGDO4/s1600/Wally+trousers+10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Q4jbmGRjsuc/TwEw0jx6GSI/AAAAAAAAAHs/5tRLjxkGDO4/s320/Wally+trousers+10.jpg" width="191" /></a></div>To be completely fair, I'd have to post up literally two days worth of photos similar to the one above, as I slowly moved more and more material into the seat-seam. In the end (pardon the pun) I was shocked at how much that seat came in. Just remember to use a strong stitch for that seat once you get it right. I unfortunately do not have a picture of the new crotch assembly (Tommy is supposed to send me one). I do, however, have a few cool shots of how to finish the waist/seat alteration:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ojmfFGP3cEI/TwEx6JGNPtI/AAAAAAAAAH4/cN1W1d7fVng/s1600/Wally+trousers+11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ojmfFGP3cEI/TwEx6JGNPtI/AAAAAAAAAH4/cN1W1d7fVng/s320/Wally+trousers+11.jpg" width="256" /></a></div>When you put the seam back together, make sure that the fabric grain and belt loops are vertical. Otherwise you have to reopen the seam (as I had to) and straighten things out. If things are not squared out, the waist band will start to 'V' out and no longer be flat.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uT9Fw8vgwI8/TwEylTTP6oI/AAAAAAAAAIE/E9NdPWeNcls/s1600/Wally+trousers+12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="191" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uT9Fw8vgwI8/TwEylTTP6oI/AAAAAAAAAIE/E9NdPWeNcls/s320/Wally+trousers+12.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Run a quick stitch-in-the-ditch line down the joint between the trousers and the waist band. This will attach the waistband to the trousers. Flip the inner band down and tack it in place (by hand or by machine), then reattach your belt loops. It should wind up something similar to this:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mRoK5at35lU/TwEz6qA7b8I/AAAAAAAAAIQ/FKeaHhvSshc/s1600/Wally+trousers+13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="294" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mRoK5at35lU/TwEz6qA7b8I/AAAAAAAAAIQ/FKeaHhvSshc/s320/Wally+trousers+13.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>I was able to press out all of the creases that are evident here at the top. I'd love to show off the final project (then entire suit) but Tommy has yet to send me pictures of it. You'd think that a guy with a fancy dSLR would be more than happy to send his poor old <strike>tailor</strike> brother a few jpgs, but as of now we'll all have to wait.<br />
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What do you think, readers? How'd the pants come out? Any thoughts on how to motivate Tom to send me the pictures? Drop me some love in the comments.<br />
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(I want to apologize for the slightly lower quality images this go-around. I'm working from my laptop and GIMP =/= Photoshop.)Kyle Bakerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02141441216783347620noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5017481297917300054.post-38216976421639844612011-12-17T22:37:00.000-08:002012-01-01T19:26:34.296-08:00It finally fits: The finished jacket bodyWe we <a href="http://thewriterkyle.blogspot.com/2011/12/two-steps-forward-one-step-back.html" target="_blank">last left off</a>, I was nearly finished remaking the lapels and collar of Tom's present. I'm making pretty good time and I think I'll have this done in time for Christmas. Then disaster struck: today Tom texted me and said that he'd just scored a used suit from a friend. Well shit, way to rain on my parade. Here is what he sent me:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibJ7dbYmPTy1kHzlMOlLYOCJZQF3ilgFM2WJs1rUVqNAAehs9GbnJsgNpwMB6fIhMAb8RBt_67ZFwIdqhNCxO_OGV9ygL1rTaqmlxutMJSWIO5LZETYwGpIVFS8xJkkWziENO9-cer33M/s1600/Tom%2527s-new-suit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="208" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibJ7dbYmPTy1kHzlMOlLYOCJZQF3ilgFM2WJs1rUVqNAAehs9GbnJsgNpwMB6fIhMAb8RBt_67ZFwIdqhNCxO_OGV9ygL1rTaqmlxutMJSWIO5LZETYwGpIVFS8xJkkWziENO9-cer33M/s320/Tom%2527s-new-suit.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Fortunately, the fit needs some tailoring and the lapels/styling are definitely dated (likely a similar vintage to the project suit). Unfortunately, the suit is a super cool brown/rust windowpane plaid and I'm more than a little jealous. In the end, this development changes nothing; he still needs a modern styled, well fitting suit. Back to the <strike>oars</strike> collar with me.<br />
<br />
Reshaping the collar is basically the same as the lapels. Mark off the shape you want, open the stitches, fold, press, trim, restitch. It's a smaller piece, only one layer thick, and therefore much faster going. After the shape is good, pin, trim, and restitch the felt backing.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6VTlUB-sHu9RoWwUhWBX50hQcj_7ucWIoM6ufMU5ZtLmj2FPq51CSuVGBpxti-hgvvG8wiAmyX0TG0GjHF3sV7K-tOFUAvarpQGCQA5rlkRN2DCRCVdEiEF7OX0nJ_1fZErdEQp4Pzbs/s1600/restitch-collar-backing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6VTlUB-sHu9RoWwUhWBX50hQcj_7ucWIoM6ufMU5ZtLmj2FPq51CSuVGBpxti-hgvvG8wiAmyX0TG0GjHF3sV7K-tOFUAvarpQGCQA5rlkRN2DCRCVdEiEF7OX0nJ_1fZErdEQp4Pzbs/s320/restitch-collar-backing.jpg" width="191" /></a></div>After it's all assembled, give everything a good press and marvel in your work. But not too long, because half the suit still needs work, and now things get tricky. The second half needs to match the first half perfectly. At first, I intended to make a cardboard pattern that would let me transfer the exact shape across:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbT4z8EwJKRTgpu-KbmEfXtauVcZGfQBV1cpu94qJNB5on-jRER4iVJPASn_UGsodVvB_RpGGzDM0kjRwqIWfnOhx0cDsY0aa3wue5aFFf0fSXNtCYkIMxxxOBoNriHPmdPYIBGX2WZ0c/s1600/cardboard-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbT4z8EwJKRTgpu-KbmEfXtauVcZGfQBV1cpu94qJNB5on-jRER4iVJPASn_UGsodVvB_RpGGzDM0kjRwqIWfnOhx0cDsY0aa3wue5aFFf0fSXNtCYkIMxxxOBoNriHPmdPYIBGX2WZ0c/s320/cardboard-1.jpg" width="191" /></a></div>The first step was to find a stable reference point that was equal on both sides. I chose the first body dart and the lapel's notch. Then pinned the cardboard in place to prevent it from moving. Next I flipped the assembly over and traced the lapel edge.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXmi8DtDLHB3u4itEkI8fT4vPIw1oDwWgVj3esGfYDLrYCZwj7_wMf1_bT2SHoCNE6bWZSWYWTwJYjXTd1HtDFVb5ajzjZjIMbaokY5unIc18TLrKGJOo_-APhPn4mUIH1wredv6SPnnI/s1600/cardboard-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXmi8DtDLHB3u4itEkI8fT4vPIw1oDwWgVj3esGfYDLrYCZwj7_wMf1_bT2SHoCNE6bWZSWYWTwJYjXTd1HtDFVb5ajzjZjIMbaokY5unIc18TLrKGJOo_-APhPn4mUIH1wredv6SPnnI/s320/cardboard-2.jpg" width="191" /></a></div>This strategy however, has a flaw: the new side has a different notch than the unaltered side. In order to keep things symmetrical I was going to need lots of careful measuring... something I really lack the patience for. Time for plan 'B'.<br />
<br />
This jacket's lining is edged in with a thin red ribbon. It adds a nice bit of stying, but it also provides a fixed reference point for both jacket sides. I decided to match the ribbon lines up, pin everything together, and trace the new lapel onto the old one.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG9uD19EkWy-efutyskw5JRbWSmhOdcmSMQz316kmOvBC_gV5rfl-062mpVEoPom44cAhtyBJja6HMv-MaHUwK20AGIRryL-vYs35qS0A4c8bs5UCtVJs1AFz7rdVGfib3eHbTHiP41E4/s1600/trace.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="191" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG9uD19EkWy-efutyskw5JRbWSmhOdcmSMQz316kmOvBC_gV5rfl-062mpVEoPom44cAhtyBJja6HMv-MaHUwK20AGIRryL-vYs35qS0A4c8bs5UCtVJs1AFz7rdVGfib3eHbTHiP41E4/s320/trace.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>It worked great. If it hadn't, I'd still have been able to do lots of tedious measuring and get the same result (thank God I didn't have to). From here out, the process is exactly the same as before: Rip the seams, fold, press, double check that it looks right, baste, trim, and top-stitch. It really does go faster once you are not trying to figure out what shape you like or anything else of that sort. The end result was, in my humble opinion, awesome.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit7Sgw5GAHtTA5iEXHlRCYBnDspRqKO9SAXqfqx47sUTGwMxZ7g9XWf-2D3uAuKf0KBfO2Omm8yle5q-A-YQmm_grLsrfqhY8VhMAorpC9axCTSGkRINTVV_0l4BFcKBI8AYNh02jVL9I/s1600/Composite.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="175" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit7Sgw5GAHtTA5iEXHlRCYBnDspRqKO9SAXqfqx47sUTGwMxZ7g9XWf-2D3uAuKf0KBfO2Omm8yle5q-A-YQmm_grLsrfqhY8VhMAorpC9axCTSGkRINTVV_0l4BFcKBI8AYNh02jVL9I/s320/Composite.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Lets take a closer look at how those lapels turned out, and why I chose the shape I did.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3HAw0hjE9lJRyiDdrxHB9lqXtgz6DMeRiZw7RXitZVBkqePNUjzVMjcnJRiATc5wsaGyUJPoeLFYX_loPAbIRmjGng2eOzvFDbbmM26jQa4AaDIvNY4NU5t_zSix1as9NxkHUo6qJtzA/s1600/angles.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3HAw0hjE9lJRyiDdrxHB9lqXtgz6DMeRiZw7RXitZVBkqePNUjzVMjcnJRiATc5wsaGyUJPoeLFYX_loPAbIRmjGng2eOzvFDbbmM26jQa4AaDIvNY4NU5t_zSix1as9NxkHUo6qJtzA/s320/angles.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>In the end, I decided that the lapel edge should be parallel to the torso edge (green lines), that the top notch edge should be parallel to the pocket (red lines), and that the lower notch edge should be parallel to the shoulder (blue lines). That one was a miss, but only because I can't change the angle of the original geometry. It's possible that all that would create a notch that is too shallow, but until I find a suit with sufficient geometry to play with, I'll never know.<br />
<br />
Still to come: shortening (and possible narrowing) of the sleeves, hemming of the pants, and I need to find a way to cut almost four inches out of the waist! Given that time is running short, I think the next step should be the pants. I already know how to shorten the sleeves and hem the pant legs, but that waist is going to take some creative thinking to prevent it from looking like crap. Stay tuned for gratuitous shots of my ass, because next time we take on the trousers!Kyle Bakerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02141441216783347620noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5017481297917300054.post-59391492085481842622011-12-14T22:37:00.000-08:002011-12-14T22:37:19.612-08:00Two steps forward, one step back.So I stared at the progress I had made in the <a href="http://thewriterkyle.blogspot.com/2011/12/too-wet-to-climb-but-progress-is-made.html" target="_blank">last update</a> and decided I didn't like the new lapel. Something, and I'm still not 100% sure what, was off. So it was back to the drawing board, seam ripper, pin box, and iron. This jacket is going to be perfect even if it kills me. I busted out my chalk and drew up the new shape:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNuVUe-TzpjpFpFhDEby07TIVoH6I3oyDSzTKans2F834YFNL9AdJNQfGMxWjjjtN-mWEuuKVYQrUdBAq4IPNgOYFM84Uufo1lImUeThpfvWYfUCF4KJ1ECPLoc0Ks7TanHY2fTBfvACA/s1600/round-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNuVUe-TzpjpFpFhDEby07TIVoH6I3oyDSzTKans2F834YFNL9AdJNQfGMxWjjjtN-mWEuuKVYQrUdBAq4IPNgOYFM84Uufo1lImUeThpfvWYfUCF4KJ1ECPLoc0Ks7TanHY2fTBfvACA/s320/round-2.jpg" width="298" /></a></div>The goal here was to try and get the lapel edge to be roughly parallel with the side of the torso. If possible, I'd also like to make the notch/collar edge parallel to the shoulder. However, the original suit pattern prohibits this. I was satisfied with the chalk-up and so I ripped the lapel back apart. This time I remembered to baste EVERYTHING. Both sides independently and then again together. I even threw in some pins for the hell of it.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBlrptrIKe_khAYUxBbQYX5AG8ta2O1XVWc4lwlVPOaL9f-0-DVVczFEkkNj0VS-X96hby49Qe12Sp9IF_ASUpI1FTbmn0kIdF2D95r2mpSfBjA08eWW-0s8aBmqvRtLttF_b4EYXjPwQ/s1600/Ready-to-stitch.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBlrptrIKe_khAYUxBbQYX5AG8ta2O1XVWc4lwlVPOaL9f-0-DVVczFEkkNj0VS-X96hby49Qe12Sp9IF_ASUpI1FTbmn0kIdF2D95r2mpSfBjA08eWW-0s8aBmqvRtLttF_b4EYXjPwQ/s320/Ready-to-stitch.jpg" width="205" /></a></div> I also decided that using black thread was not going to cut it for this project. Since I was redoing all my previous stitches, it was the perfect time to make such a decision. I think it was the right call:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfW3Z1NBD4O0yAui8tmhvIUrcOWzulhRruDy1YRYz79edYmwWjSJ9kptXqyCeXJGZvG2TG9QonoZ6MFizNvE8JP6cWiH3AULsu8em_SK9L7YYK89UCJQbCI5wwhjqYsOUWngiha9ehLpk/s1600/New-edge.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="191" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfW3Z1NBD4O0yAui8tmhvIUrcOWzulhRruDy1YRYz79edYmwWjSJ9kptXqyCeXJGZvG2TG9QonoZ6MFizNvE8JP6cWiH3AULsu8em_SK9L7YYK89UCJQbCI5wwhjqYsOUWngiha9ehLpk/s320/New-edge.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Alas, this project is beginning to show me that my $25 thrift-store Dressmaker 101 is on the way out. The lower thread tension is not adjustable (that I can find) and just look at this mess. Every time I start a new stitch now, I have to deal with this:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDMag3cLQWxdJlb584j6MW1TPZckysdMQ7W96JyNUMxDABZRgEJ87irgqDv9h_ZRnIolt-WWYb1mTI_P4u6zJxFdMYZhc9sUfw0flsY_YFvubZKVoCeplK99O7ySmDCqYVwKHyp8aRlGY/s1600/damnit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="123" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDMag3cLQWxdJlb584j6MW1TPZckysdMQ7W96JyNUMxDABZRgEJ87irgqDv9h_ZRnIolt-WWYb1mTI_P4u6zJxFdMYZhc9sUfw0flsY_YFvubZKVoCeplK99O7ySmDCqYVwKHyp8aRlGY/s320/damnit.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Fortunately, I love both seam ripping and knot tying. After a few minutes of dewadding I was ready to pull out the basting stitches. The to removal of basting is to NOT tie knots when you stitch those in. That way they slide out nice and easy.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxNvNX83slJA47Ws6wsIvKppy4OseUYrEG5_Y5NO5V4RvlnJ-sfC_UjR4LWCD-LZP_1kfhvo68fhJrOh5B6tAJ5mH39JbYPxn6qzh-tDHXerdOolbHfZo4S1CI28Rj4cTWTSA2NjeNGms/s1600/time-to-rip.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="191" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxNvNX83slJA47Ws6wsIvKppy4OseUYrEG5_Y5NO5V4RvlnJ-sfC_UjR4LWCD-LZP_1kfhvo68fhJrOh5B6tAJ5mH39JbYPxn6qzh-tDHXerdOolbHfZo4S1CI28Rj4cTWTSA2NjeNGms/s320/time-to-rip.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>And that's it! The side and lapel are a nice press and a couple of button holes away from completion. We're 25% of the way to the finish line. Time to take on the collar and lapel notch. To make the notch I had to separate the collar from the lapel. Not all the way, but a bit farther than what was chalked in (for ease of work). To make life easy on myself, I removed the felt collar backing:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPfKTWvG9Yoc8pMGhdp-8Xvbz_yr4ZlXL0SQ9NVvQmta8nQO3pKRffTWtkKI8BFnwe01QxvGkR3pFB4J8n2H69j-snJx2kHwJ3q5qIEZlRvy70dGKdidahOwd-sSUP61UdyzTRUtxlLFg/s1600/collar-back.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="252" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPfKTWvG9Yoc8pMGhdp-8Xvbz_yr4ZlXL0SQ9NVvQmta8nQO3pKRffTWtkKI8BFnwe01QxvGkR3pFB4J8n2H69j-snJx2kHwJ3q5qIEZlRvy70dGKdidahOwd-sSUP61UdyzTRUtxlLFg/s320/collar-back.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>This collar is different than the ones I've played with in the past. It's a total short-cut, but one I'm likely to employ in the future. The collar edge is folded over the felt and then overcasted back onto the felt. Only the edge, not the full length. The upshot is that it makes it much easier to keep the end looking clean and even. Note that the back edge is also zig-zagged to the felt backing. I will definitely NOT put it back on that way.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSIQTDVcw1Kih9u2JV1Ji-taSFWAXoCR7TlFDri_G_n30r3R9Air5pIxwwlBIUF3oxDuoPSa2L6tbr8MVQHjP6V2oIjgR_5GPQEZySc-OimeTu-p43eRoD5DVTAZISAuLWwDQudLZYMHQ/s1600/collar-back-detail.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSIQTDVcw1Kih9u2JV1Ji-taSFWAXoCR7TlFDri_G_n30r3R9Air5pIxwwlBIUF3oxDuoPSa2L6tbr8MVQHjP6V2oIjgR_5GPQEZySc-OimeTu-p43eRoD5DVTAZISAuLWwDQudLZYMHQ/s320/collar-back-detail.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Time was getting short so I decided to mock up the fit and see how it all looked. Out came the pins and requisite facebook mirror self-shot:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6EueJyQJrFhcF42nS9WmmdLGmr_BEGG5rXKWm_dsc9d1R7rT2-Xa8T-638OjTLi3InzUAawxPrRVjTBwD9FDMHr3W-fXPFrkOznjQw8L70GrfCNTO_RT0ZBkbnqpXyMW3BU3KhTneBwY/s1600/New-Lapel.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6EueJyQJrFhcF42nS9WmmdLGmr_BEGG5rXKWm_dsc9d1R7rT2-Xa8T-638OjTLi3InzUAawxPrRVjTBwD9FDMHr3W-fXPFrkOznjQw8L70GrfCNTO_RT0ZBkbnqpXyMW3BU3KhTneBwY/s320/New-Lapel.jpg" width="187" /></a></div>I'm so <strike>tired</strike> excited here that I forgot to smile.Once this is done I'm totally going to have to tailor myself a suit so that Tom doesn't end up dressing better than me all the time. I think it's damn good. Still not perfect, but damn good. What do you think, readers? Would you change anything about the lapel shape?<br />
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Next time I'll finish the collar, make a cardboard stencil and start in on the other side. See you then.Kyle Bakerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02141441216783347620noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5017481297917300054.post-68733399173092074952011-12-11T21:55:00.000-08:002011-12-14T22:37:43.761-08:00Too wet to climb, but progress is made (sort of)!Over a month ago, my climbing buddies and I decided to get together and climb some super-secret sport and top-rope routes (near Boerne) and maybe partake of some sweet bouldering action while we were at it. But Mother Nature had other plans. With as dry as things have been, I feel like a jack-ass for complaining about rain, but goddamnitiwantedtoclimb! Oh well, I'll have lots of chances once my kid is born, right?<br />
<br />
So instead I stayed in and accomplished some work on my Christmas project: <a href="http://thewriterkyle.blogspot.com/2011/12/in-over-my-head-what-else-is-new.html" target="_blank">Tommy's suit</a>. When last we left off I was still in the planning phase of what to do. Today I started cutting. But before I did that, I did some measurements and comparisons. First up, I compared the project jacket to two others, paying attention to the lapel shapes.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp4nIVpC03Cy1QWGVgZ7bKS7VgVmRCjXYhIEhyphenhyphenPI0sl212wDk7teda2QGraGxSz0EiBpWJwzuMYwgcYfriZTQB-uV7Qx_cVfQNDBO2A_cnL1to7bhtKAI8wppcAP4VuYwvrk8KwgA2jqs/s1600/3-way.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp4nIVpC03Cy1QWGVgZ7bKS7VgVmRCjXYhIEhyphenhyphenPI0sl212wDk7teda2QGraGxSz0EiBpWJwzuMYwgcYfriZTQB-uV7Qx_cVfQNDBO2A_cnL1to7bhtKAI8wppcAP4VuYwvrk8KwgA2jqs/s320/3-way.jpg" width="191" /></a></div>Note the more exaggerated curvature the bottom (project) jacket has. The houndstooth, after its recent rework, is very straight, and the middle jacket is apparently a long cut? Who cares. Its time to measure our new edge. I don't have lots of fancy sewing tools, but I do have a level, and hey, it's good enough right?<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMYtZO2PIzvHMX-yGuK0bwQ4L4eX05Qxq-LEi18rD1zDGRvewq_GiwIc8ApPut-dscr01VitgbXR2EWvwCiPrb5co0hODFimTfFcBajXN9us0622HxLZQuT7m5D6awCRxUo7pXIPTS4Hc/s1600/IMG_20111211_154524.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="191" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMYtZO2PIzvHMX-yGuK0bwQ4L4eX05Qxq-LEi18rD1zDGRvewq_GiwIc8ApPut-dscr01VitgbXR2EWvwCiPrb5co0hODFimTfFcBajXN9us0622HxLZQuT7m5D6awCRxUo7pXIPTS4Hc/s320/IMG_20111211_154524.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Hit it with the chalk wheel, and we get this:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkgOHJrz86fsKbJwM18kD_viRjvHuJyp6-YbE4D0lFo9eS3N5Oj02aRSz2buufvP5zNkllqPNKYLAUWj-KuGpu-2HA5v3XKGC3NsBC07XqrW2k_3AGx0TY14d_qVBziCWZsTSFmmmUpaE/s1600/compare.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkgOHJrz86fsKbJwM18kD_viRjvHuJyp6-YbE4D0lFo9eS3N5Oj02aRSz2buufvP5zNkllqPNKYLAUWj-KuGpu-2HA5v3XKGC3NsBC07XqrW2k_3AGx0TY14d_qVBziCWZsTSFmmmUpaE/s320/compare.jpg" width="191" /></a></div>Nice. This is a good time to decide if you want a different (read: narrower) lapel shape. I decided to stay, relatively, stock with this. Next up, it's time to press the new edge. The chalk line will work as our new guide line for pressing.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh17dC2F6Jkh-dV-Bw_UH7W4bdZPg-OmFCu_OnjH4zWKvGjU4Fladvv3MPak-dXD75RAYqsbWy6ZGdLJQV628qjb8ks8l9Q3n3FJr81ntnZPrf9dHFZyyl1BXy9thHM1SZh5x8fHRl5BsE/s1600/Press.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh17dC2F6Jkh-dV-Bw_UH7W4bdZPg-OmFCu_OnjH4zWKvGjU4Fladvv3MPak-dXD75RAYqsbWy6ZGdLJQV628qjb8ks8l9Q3n3FJr81ntnZPrf9dHFZyyl1BXy9thHM1SZh5x8fHRl5BsE/s320/Press.jpg" width="191" /></a></div>I have my press cloth crammed in there for definition and to show how much material is being removed. After both sides were pressed, I basted the new edges with high contrast green thread. The idea here is to keep things from moving while we are sewing the edges together. I've tried pins, but they never work quite as well. It doesn't take long, and saves a good deal of grief down the road.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjihW_Ts9NyO48v2DJGR9gSayzpK45-zo6zNON8_10qnlzqUvQBI9unQiQkSt8lRX45l6hRMe4YJD7V8vFT5eh9BLJT3ZwsB73alyRIAsEnpOOmJVrtvqSrzbq6Ru7wSx9RrXt-4V1rg0s/s1600/Baste.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjihW_Ts9NyO48v2DJGR9gSayzpK45-zo6zNON8_10qnlzqUvQBI9unQiQkSt8lRX45l6hRMe4YJD7V8vFT5eh9BLJT3ZwsB73alyRIAsEnpOOmJVrtvqSrzbq6Ru7wSx9RrXt-4V1rg0s/s320/Baste.jpg" width="191" /></a></div>After that, I pinned the two halves together and got to sewing. The results were not spectacular, because I ignored my own advice and didn't baste the two halves together before sewing. Instead, I pinned it and there was a little bit of shift. Nothing I can't fix later, but it was there. Baste the sides, don't pin them. And here is the rough-up of what it will look like:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinC1uIanhqYfXvtPmjhyaYAjxSozq1XzJXn7EE-OJFi8zhLqTaZc4PsgpXUh1wYzfioNuznXusA2RSeh4RkAxkpnA9spExcb_EplfwyStfRT0j6yaY4dEJ5B043Am-g_P060dIQRA3-XY/s1600/Mid-way.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinC1uIanhqYfXvtPmjhyaYAjxSozq1XzJXn7EE-OJFi8zhLqTaZc4PsgpXUh1wYzfioNuznXusA2RSeh4RkAxkpnA9spExcb_EplfwyStfRT0j6yaY4dEJ5B043Am-g_P060dIQRA3-XY/s320/Mid-way.jpg" width="196" /></a></div>However, I'm not totally happy with the end result on the lapel. I think it's... off some how. Perhaps it needs to be narrowed and the notch needs to be higher. Perhaps something like this:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKyYPctrsUHXvEzYI_548N4fTNOSr0N5Co2KPVlS3SePGubGlMhUuUaDM-FngZvIRNKW0fiN0CCpbAmFMtc9ukIauQJEVY-AYyfj5-mWuPg41dm1lO_P2G6AfItNP1YBPK0pOxteJCOfk/s1600/maybe.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKyYPctrsUHXvEzYI_548N4fTNOSr0N5Co2KPVlS3SePGubGlMhUuUaDM-FngZvIRNKW0fiN0CCpbAmFMtc9ukIauQJEVY-AYyfj5-mWuPg41dm1lO_P2G6AfItNP1YBPK0pOxteJCOfk/s320/maybe.jpg" width="196" /></a></div>I'll play with it more in the morning. I have to get up early and my baby-momma is yelling at me to call it a night. Give me some love and/or feedback. I'll toss up more tomorrow.Kyle Bakerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02141441216783347620noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5017481297917300054.post-35874918091434180152011-12-09T23:31:00.000-08:002011-12-15T21:58:43.377-08:00In over my head? What else is new.So it's been an interesting week. The largest, and most frightening, announcement of my life went live on Facebook three days ago-- I'm going to be a father. I think I looked similar to Mr. Fox when Mrs. Fox broke the same news to him:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgB3OoboPhUqjCEtjU4kD24JcRgyBMmsulDl8c3dqhzlV1ziGJ1B4Y_UNqHNPNUgE71EEaY35h9m_MEyZdqo4X-jzESzg7jCN57H_7HAz1GCBkiNSnCcCOrUkNA_5O355LZZi81lqpsjY/s1600/1_copy5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="170" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgB3OoboPhUqjCEtjU4kD24JcRgyBMmsulDl8c3dqhzlV1ziGJ1B4Y_UNqHNPNUgE71EEaY35h9m_MEyZdqo4X-jzESzg7jCN57H_7HAz1GCBkiNSnCcCOrUkNA_5O355LZZi81lqpsjY/s320/1_copy5.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
I then proceeded to make this exact same face for over 5 minutes. The news fills me with excitement and dread. How will I pay for all this? Will I be a good father? Where can I score a good child's suit pattern? All questions I plan to address in due time. <br />
<br />
But first, lets get back to the present. Last time I posted up about modifications on a sweet <a href="http://thewriterkyle.blogspot.com/2011/12/release-houndstooth.html" target="_blank">houdstooth blazer</a>, that I scored at a local thrift shop. It's getting lots of love and wear, however I'm starting to think that the right sleeve had been tailored about 1/4" shorter than the left. The jacket was tailored by the previous owner (Ralph Lauren never made anything off the rack that was my exact shape), and arm length differences are pretty common, plus it would explain the poorly spaced sleeve buttons. It's an easy fix, but one that will have to wait. Because Christmas is coming!<br />
<br />
This year the family decided to try and get as crafty as possible with gift giving. A decision was made to make as much as possible and try to second hand the rest. I decided that my brother needed a nice suit. To be honest, he sort of has one, but it's been pieced together so the trousers don't match the jacket, and nothing really fits well. Sorry Tom, it just doesn't look great.<br />
<br />
Fortunately, I have an extra-- sort of. Enter my great-uncle Wallace's old suit:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixEUB-YJ-IvWt2p6fsHxBRSuHuDJimcHG00oTmm3yJtPXxih4hyphenhyphenP-LFQeqmhyphenhyphenxxrf7gpkb-yJEGeh1xN81ZvHuYSgImYCXyMz42MWfXxn-EmMLifIS1ty4F_0r8Lnh7SyMESHdKnoDAZ8/s1600/IMG_20111209_172854.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixEUB-YJ-IvWt2p6fsHxBRSuHuDJimcHG00oTmm3yJtPXxih4hyphenhyphenP-LFQeqmhyphenhyphenxxrf7gpkb-yJEGeh1xN81ZvHuYSgImYCXyMz42MWfXxn-EmMLifIS1ty4F_0r8Lnh7SyMESHdKnoDAZ8/s320/IMG_20111209_172854.jpg" width="191" /></a></div>I'm not wearing the trousers here, because they won't stay up without my camera hand's assistance, and this isn't-that-sort-of-blog. Notice how baggy it is. Note the <strike>coo</strike>l old curved lapels, the low placed notches, the too-long sleeves. All things that scream "Early 90's off-the-rack cheap suit". But I can fix all this... I think.<br />
<br />
Lets another angle:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiym8ghMZZdKAGSGVsgMHD3kNL9s-YpLO0vjckVRfsGf8FcfSKAfm3NcWq0pGE7KiylOtSN9agGigrsHZlh8lfBula0OBXp4oibKzzz7Ra9Hb6JrvzgZf6vDF0yIigWgSAIxkINLGKCBWc/s1600/IMG_20111209_172917.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiym8ghMZZdKAGSGVsgMHD3kNL9s-YpLO0vjckVRfsGf8FcfSKAfm3NcWq0pGE7KiylOtSN9agGigrsHZlh8lfBula0OBXp4oibKzzz7Ra9Hb6JrvzgZf6vDF0yIigWgSAIxkINLGKCBWc/s320/IMG_20111209_172917.jpg" width="191" /></a></div>As you can see here, I have at least a half-hand's width of extra material on each side, but all the excess comes on the button edge of the coat. This was, I believe, a common practice among coat makers of the era. It lets you sell to people with waistlines in excess of their shoulders (or roughly 70% of America).<br />
<br />
I figure I have two options in correcting this: I can convert it to a double breasted suit, thereby working this excess into the over-flap. I have buttons and a keyhole button-holer, so it's probably an easy route to take, but I just don't like the look of it (Too 'old banker' for my tastes.):<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-OyDDJXPgdeZDw_gCMyqE_gdqFJgyNh5DlvBhXf4j0NEj3beOJmraRoAhWTEdt5ASqczJgUTUOLUVDvTirYJSVhAQyw-E016xWnSQvnP_tkFGc7Bwf-xRSu4LMKSxTrZ6aoomk_J_KdQ/s1600/IMG_20111209_173123.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-OyDDJXPgdeZDw_gCMyqE_gdqFJgyNh5DlvBhXf4j0NEj3beOJmraRoAhWTEdt5ASqczJgUTUOLUVDvTirYJSVhAQyw-E016xWnSQvnP_tkFGc7Bwf-xRSu4LMKSxTrZ6aoomk_J_KdQ/s320/IMG_20111209_173123.jpg" width="191" /></a></div>That leaves me with the option of removing several inches of material from each side. After playing with it a bit, I think that it would be easiest to do so from the button assembly; basically make the new edges about even with the inside edge of the old button holes. The pockets shift inwards when this happens, but the settle down pretty close to where they are on the houndstooth jacket, so I'm sure it will be fine.<br />
<br />
It will be a lot of work, for sure, but still much easier than reworking the pocket seams, sleeve seams, or trying to take the excess out from the back. At this point, I even dare think this will all be a bit... dare I say it? Simple.<br />
<br />
So the final plan for this project:<br />
1) Hem the inside jacket facing inward roughly 3" on each side.<br />
2) Rework the lapel edges to be straight for a more modern look<br />
3) Adjust sleeve length<br />
4) Adjust trouser waist and inseam<br />
<br />
And the biggest hurdle: I'm trying to make it a surprise so I can't ask him to swing by for a fitting or to get his measurements! I know, Madness. But we're twins so I should be able use myself for most measurements. He's a little heavier than I am, so I'll include a little extra room in each measurement (although he claims to have the same waist-size I do, so I'll have to keep it all pretty close).<br />
<br />
Tom, if you are reading this (and I doubt you are) the surprise has been ruined. Damn you. Damn you for ruining Christmas! That said, pick up your phone and call me, I'd much rather have accurate measurements for this, and I'm 300% sure the end result will fit better.<br />
<br />
Any thoughts? I'd love a little guidance before I jump into this. Fortunately this project has fewer parts than my 97' Ranger engine rebuild (and we all know how well that turned out). Unfortunately, I only have 2 weeks to make this happen. We'll have to see how it all goes. Stay tuned for a rapid progression on this!Kyle Bakerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02141441216783347620noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5017481297917300054.post-86057727934508852692011-12-04T00:19:00.000-08:002011-12-04T00:19:59.509-08:00Release the Hounds(tooth)!<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">I recently set out with a few new goals for myself. The first one was to start dressing better, and that meant owning (and getting comfortable with wearing) a suit. I figured that this goal would help me in my ongoing quest to get a real job. Then I realized that I am too poor to afford a closet full of nice suits. So I bought two okay ones from the store and set out to thrift the rest. Last Thursday I found this gem hidden in a back corner:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZc55iqaVutxfIS60pfMT8N8hE6_Tlxu3dtnv0ctipG9RezCVWcxXMJsjwrZLMGjAPvmPGVMmI71iB_PvREwERmu5yEHPkk904C8C1UZ8hadRqFd9LJk4bzcv_JENtIJFU7cLvyi3zwtw/s1600/Houndstooth.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZc55iqaVutxfIS60pfMT8N8hE6_Tlxu3dtnv0ctipG9RezCVWcxXMJsjwrZLMGjAPvmPGVMmI71iB_PvREwERmu5yEHPkk904C8C1UZ8hadRqFd9LJk4bzcv_JENtIJFU7cLvyi3zwtw/s320/Houndstooth.jpg" width="297" /></a></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><br />
</div><div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">The fit across the shoulders was perfect. The sleeves were the correct length, right off the rack. Perhaps my doppelganger bought this suit 40 years ago, had it tailored, and then placed it there for me to find. Who knows. One thing I <strong><em>do</em></strong> know, however, is that those massive lapels are a serious show stopper. If I was ever going to wear this jacket, they were going to have to go.<br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhom5NuVnIMctbVGxm0a2snC8_ALS3-qIalVg-05uLfUilrtkjHK8RBZvDaXRt5Bvt4wW-gSqLF6vxHVrKIKFRPIUcOcuMi5PuRbfRLebUVM5An0S1exPIPRWEZX3juJQ4qxwp1XxN09NA/s1600/IMG_20111201_224407.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhom5NuVnIMctbVGxm0a2snC8_ALS3-qIalVg-05uLfUilrtkjHK8RBZvDaXRt5Bvt4wW-gSqLF6vxHVrKIKFRPIUcOcuMi5PuRbfRLebUVM5An0S1exPIPRWEZX3juJQ4qxwp1XxN09NA/s320/IMG_20111201_224407.jpg" width="191" /></a></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">Yep, that is 14 cm wide at the top. Most jackets these-days seem to hover around the 10 cm mark, but Ralph Lauren wanted to make sure everyone got an eye full of this sweet, sweet, houndstooth. Allow me to also draw your attention to the mismatched body-buttons and the odd spacing on the sleeve buttons:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrJ4DsE3nDIiO2NSdJ3fSrywGfQy6wJq1XkAH4Vk4C5Qynq-1iKFPIfb0x946qMVntUmzbaBoj77trAj0kUH-ELmT1dWxvQtj3di5Lgn9CNLoq1sx_N0nuusiNj0D0ZtMrnPquL3N2F5Y/s1600/Problems.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrJ4DsE3nDIiO2NSdJ3fSrywGfQy6wJq1XkAH4Vk4C5Qynq-1iKFPIfb0x946qMVntUmzbaBoj77trAj0kUH-ELmT1dWxvQtj3di5Lgn9CNLoq1sx_N0nuusiNj0D0ZtMrnPquL3N2F5Y/s320/Problems.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">So lets get down to business. I had previously played with another jacket and pioneered a method of lapel reduction that did not involve taking the entire jacket apart. I decided to give it another go here. The first step is to use a seam ripper to cut the lapel open. (When you get to the boutonnière hole, you will have to cut the buttonhole stitching as well. I used my seam ripper and ripped from between the two lapel layers.)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3eomv1lyXYB9pAmyjbkImyom-SFkgTwsF8z-Jw61dEPNWzZE1RWtN-jsoBoFImpNpbaSHzzr7D-hFJkv4HZiGfci_FkZvJ47BxV6QNWSyYcyWE0BzdsyiSTxpdE_qkmg_bHvCduWDqls/s1600/Lapel-opened.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3eomv1lyXYB9pAmyjbkImyom-SFkgTwsF8z-Jw61dEPNWzZE1RWtN-jsoBoFImpNpbaSHzzr7D-hFJkv4HZiGfci_FkZvJ47BxV6QNWSyYcyWE0BzdsyiSTxpdE_qkmg_bHvCduWDqls/s320/Lapel-opened.jpg" width="191" /></a></div>After you rip the lapel open along the full length you intend to modify (plus a little extra for wiggle room), disconnect the collar from the lapel about along about 3/4 of the lapel (basically, separate the collar from the lapel where they meet in the notch).<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9n3Cw3tRFHCHPuGZbzfInJhNqFUvA7rj_n54vZjILpsquIyu18eXmUsTK63MOdhSekklvOS5ghDPPIw50w_lfHZR7cq7fnrz-QC5rOPYRU7m2mA0vwB-dJ0iO83dIStl77_x_adhNGAU/s1600/IMG_20111203_183244.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9n3Cw3tRFHCHPuGZbzfInJhNqFUvA7rj_n54vZjILpsquIyu18eXmUsTK63MOdhSekklvOS5ghDPPIw50w_lfHZR7cq7fnrz-QC5rOPYRU7m2mA0vwB-dJ0iO83dIStl77_x_adhNGAU/s320/IMG_20111203_183244.jpg" width="191" /></a></div>Next up, Press everything flat so that you aren't fighting the old lapel. Then it's decision time: what size lapel do you want to have? For my project I decided that the pattern at-hand lended plenty of weight to the equation, so a smaller lapel would be better. However, I also didn't want an anemic skinny little thing that seemed out of touch with the rest of the suit.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrbqMCpkT56TcRxsFSkObac4OaqoFlUfxhDKHnA1yIbugTNiDu0CPx0Hr9WZX3_KKLSWCGYkxV2IEyLFRpt-oKscjpTEoAhMOfu28nHbjnjv7VLAmZS3IShd3LfJtlrO1ZdbT7eTtyFvg/s1600/IMG_20111202_002550.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrbqMCpkT56TcRxsFSkObac4OaqoFlUfxhDKHnA1yIbugTNiDu0CPx0Hr9WZX3_KKLSWCGYkxV2IEyLFRpt-oKscjpTEoAhMOfu28nHbjnjv7VLAmZS3IShd3LfJtlrO1ZdbT7eTtyFvg/s320/IMG_20111202_002550.jpg" width="191" /></a></div>I figured that 9 cm wide was a good choice. A little narrower than most of what I own, but still balanced. Pick what you are comfortable with, and fold the rest inside the lapel. Press the whole thing to give it a crisp edge and see how it looks.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgupzZW7CGx-cGeflrH2vFgUb74n5SEjHPItRGKC-xtrHc-Grjs-xwzE6TPqqINtfq-AyVbxasyVqzPWuJ-xgmBp4mk6TpqLUDv-8DAMfpdwFRlbSe0ZCfWI_w1YKEiSYjCbjYBOlLdfsw/s1600/IMG_20111201_231531.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgupzZW7CGx-cGeflrH2vFgUb74n5SEjHPItRGKC-xtrHc-Grjs-xwzE6TPqqINtfq-AyVbxasyVqzPWuJ-xgmBp4mk6TpqLUDv-8DAMfpdwFRlbSe0ZCfWI_w1YKEiSYjCbjYBOlLdfsw/s320/IMG_20111201_231531.jpg" width="191" /></a></div>If it looks good, repeat the process for the backside lapel. The importing thing here is to keep things even and identical. Don't feel bad if you have to reshape it several times, lord know I did. In the end you should get two correct sized lapels which are waaay to thick (due to all the folded-in material). Ignore the collar and the notch at this point, we will get to them next.<br />
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After playing around a little with this, I found that the real key is to hand baste the lapels in their new position. I tried pinning, but it just wasn't enough. Spend an extra minute here and tack the new lapels roughly 1/8" from the edge. This prevents them from changing shapes when you are sewing them together. You will save time in the long run, when you don't have to take the project apart 100 times (I learned this the hard way).<br />
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Once you have the two pieces in place and are satisfied with the way things look, trim the excess material out that you folded in. At the corners you may have to trim a little closer to allow the lapel to fold correctly. Just keep your material in mind, if it frays you'll be up a creek.<br />
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Now top-stitch the lapel faces together as close to the edge as you can. I think I usually sew mine around 1/8" (the space from my machine's needle to the edge of the foot). Now it's time to address that notch and collar.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-MUHaG4cnZfEqixrE1v_Jn7EiCj_b7Z-tzfZOiO0FGW7YknsUTz4u5f37Ji9u0va3GOyVDGYR4tsHJmmnoJiGgqBxV7zpv1a00sTKzwTcZMHLpadaP-u862webxfjF-gBZeL4JUu4z4U/s1600/IMG_20111203_183435.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-MUHaG4cnZfEqixrE1v_Jn7EiCj_b7Z-tzfZOiO0FGW7YknsUTz4u5f37Ji9u0va3GOyVDGYR4tsHJmmnoJiGgqBxV7zpv1a00sTKzwTcZMHLpadaP-u862webxfjF-gBZeL4JUu4z4U/s320/IMG_20111203_183435.jpg" width="191" /></a></div>Measure in as far as you'd like the notch to extend. I usually pick something close to 1/2 my total lapel width, in this case I picked 5 cm. Roll the back lapel material inside and top-stitch the lapel shut. Slip-stitch the collar back onto the lapel. This should give you a finished lapel and an oddly proportioned collar that is not-yet notched.<br />
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If you fold the collar back, you will start to see your notch forming, but you will also see how disproportionate it all looks. This is because the collar needs to narrow a bit as it approaches the notch. Trace back a little and find a good point to roll the collar-edge back to. The houndstooth pattern made this super easy:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFjkjyMxnrJjgRp0F2ASj3IZmuW_B1jID6VLRpDddODzXwQndfe7rATCTHxkE6gSXVh6N_icfqyXDFmlXZTpLgTYJQwVUob468D_i14pjSDvI-9J9NjXWoX72Jaxg1N3RoRyoiFfK-sCk/s1600/IMG_20111203_183541.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFjkjyMxnrJjgRp0F2ASj3IZmuW_B1jID6VLRpDddODzXwQndfe7rATCTHxkE6gSXVh6N_icfqyXDFmlXZTpLgTYJQwVUob468D_i14pjSDvI-9J9NjXWoX72Jaxg1N3RoRyoiFfK-sCk/s320/IMG_20111203_183541.jpg" width="191" /></a></div> Roll that edge under, press the notch and new collar shape, and then top-stitch the notch-edge. I found that, when working with the notches, it is easiest to mock the lapel/notch/collar assembly up in paper or cardboard first. That way you have a solid pattern to reference back to and it ensures that you will have symmetrical lapels and notches. Once that is done, you should have one finished half:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitXlisYF6oGMqX28J7IlWfPbQwIQQ9dmq6FVzP0dnIUiJRrpZyv9azXtGjDqUlStW432MYMmy_ZWZp9bGB5uYG22sIdxYeEAGl9_cDY7EoMB5SnP4ppgit1c0GeOYSCwvrszswIrM92_g/s1600/IMG_20111202_122548-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitXlisYF6oGMqX28J7IlWfPbQwIQQ9dmq6FVzP0dnIUiJRrpZyv9azXtGjDqUlStW432MYMmy_ZWZp9bGB5uYG22sIdxYeEAGl9_cDY7EoMB5SnP4ppgit1c0GeOYSCwvrszswIrM92_g/s320/IMG_20111202_122548-1.jpg" width="274" /></a></div> Repeat the above steps on the opposite side. Don't worry about attaching the collar back-matting at this point. Be sure to keep your measurements identical! Once both sides match, and are finished, trim the matting for the collar backing and stitch it in place. I do this by hand rather than top-stitching because it it not load bearing and it gives me a chance to cover up any small defects along the collar.<br />
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And that's it. You have finished reshaping your out-dated lapels. Press them with lots of steam (remember your pressing cloth!) and they should hold that new shape just fine. Strike a pose, pull out your iPhone, and update your myfacebooktube status. Here is my before and after shot:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh09SC4isVEmHBoHSc5IDVFkZmRAh38OKWBzo38hSY03jRNEU4Fw26FSy1V5tbpN_kmyCAqgrG8xMpaj5jvfyYFIbOfqQ54UTe63nwIaaDiYJ1WxVwARp7iWpc4OVUxn5ATp-jH90769fQ/s1600/Before-after.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="292" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh09SC4isVEmHBoHSc5IDVFkZmRAh38OKWBzo38hSY03jRNEU4Fw26FSy1V5tbpN_kmyCAqgrG8xMpaj5jvfyYFIbOfqQ54UTe63nwIaaDiYJ1WxVwARp7iWpc4OVUxn5ATp-jH90769fQ/s320/Before-after.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>So what do you think? Is this the worst possible approach I could take to lapel resizing? Would this have been much easier if I wasn't using an old zig-zag machine that cost me $25? Do I just have horrible tastes in jackets? Send me some love in the comments below. I'd love to see your finished projects and revisions to this process.Kyle Bakerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02141441216783347620noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5017481297917300054.post-24089663774265323032011-11-18T09:11:00.000-08:002011-11-18T09:14:06.250-08:00First PostIt was the best of times, it was the worst of times. It was me, posting a blog, when I should have been doing any of 1,000 more important things. But hey, progress is progress right? Making a blog has been on my list for a while (albeit, pretty far down the list). At least now <a href="http://crissybaker.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">Crissy</a> can get off my back about making one of these.<br />
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Bear with me while I relocate my various blogs from the four corners of the internet to this single site. I promise a healthy mixture of old stale old crap from my old sites and shiny, new, never-before-seen crap.<br />
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I'll sign off with a preview of things to come: How to make one of these bad-boys for use with your NES game console!<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHiZHO_BdpC1w7xezDhc2UnTjniV8zashW46U3xF2os_nRhapA1x0wSVfFZLMJkbvyCXbDYbrSCzL5IDLSmJ2qegYLX-vLHV0Ejpr25jWOfnAqh8f3c7MXwWVQANhFI3icatpTVVt_Qvo/s1600/zapper9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHiZHO_BdpC1w7xezDhc2UnTjniV8zashW46U3xF2os_nRhapA1x0wSVfFZLMJkbvyCXbDYbrSCzL5IDLSmJ2qegYLX-vLHV0Ejpr25jWOfnAqh8f3c7MXwWVQANhFI3icatpTVVt_Qvo/s320/zapper9.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Best. Duck hunt. Ever.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Kyle Bakerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02141441216783347620noreply@blogger.com1